Jump to content
SAU Community

Will This Z32 Afm Be Ok To Use?

andymoocow

By andymoocow,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

andymoocow Grand Master

andymoocow

Posted
Posted

HI All,

Just curious if this Z32 AFM will be ok to use, it does not have the PLUG that usually goes into it, but has four wires coming out that have been soldered/glued or something into where the plug goes normally.

pics here:

post-43247-1240438811_thumb.jpg

post-43247-1240438829_thumb.jpg

post-43247-1240438854_thumb.jpg

i have no idea about Z32 AFMs, so can anyone shed some light on this for me please????

Cheers.

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266678-will-this-z32-afm-be-ok-to-use/
Share on other sites
**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted

Dude,

That sort of thing can be done successfully however the way yours appears to have been done is not good. If they are just glued, forget it.

It needs to be soldered by someone who knows how to solder. If the guy has used too much heat (common mistake) he may have melted the plastic that holds the pins. This will cause fatigue where the pins attach to the circuit board inside.

The right way to do it is as follows:

1. Solder the wires to the pins.

2. Place heat shrink over the pins and the wire.

3. Fill the socket with what they call 'potting'. Jaycar have it. This is like a resin filler that you pour in and it sets hard. It stops any movement or stress on the solder joints and preventing fatigue.

My suggestion would be to change the socket. Your current one looks like a reliability problem waiting to happen.

andymoocow Grand Master

andymoocow

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Paul, you are a legend, thanks for that.

It does look like it has the resin stuff in there, but as you said, it could have had a dodgy soldering job underneath. Didnt want to put this on my car in its current condition!!!!

Will get myself a TOMEI plug and screw off this dodgy piece of gear and put on a nice NEW one that i KNOW will work.

Cheers for the help fellas!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Manur33
      Vag Coil Diy loom wire guage selection

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • Manur33
      Vag Coil Diy loom wire guage selection

      By Manur33 · Posted

      These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...