Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 175
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by JimX

I'm sure the Wolf has been discussed before, but only recently have people started speaking of the version 4 for Skylines. I was wondering about some of the more fundamental differences as they apply to Skylines, rather than the maximum amount of power you can get from each of them. Does anyone know anything about the following questions?

1. Does the Wolf do closed loop mode as efficiently as the PowerFC? I know that in the past most other ECUs couldn't compete with the PowerFC in fuel economy (cruising) mode.

Yes, Wolf does do closed loop.  I was getting better fuel economy with this feature turned off, than my friend is getting with the Pfc closed loop feature turned on.  I have just retuned the Wolf with closed loop and now my economy has gone worse.  I am certain it is only a tunner/programming problem and am taking the car back to get re-tuned.  

2. Does the Wolf work properly with the climate control and HICAS etc?

Has no effect at all with these features.  Mine is working like a charm :P.

3. How do the hand controllers of each compare? I've not really seen either of them, so which one is easier to use, and do they both show you enough on screen to make for a useful additional dash gauge?

The Wolf has 2 very detailed screens and 1 simplified screen.  The detailed screens numerically shows absollutely everything that is going on with the engine, in real-time.  The simplified screen only shows the revs, duty cycle, oxygen sensor, and i think the load (not 100% sure on the 4th item).  These are shown as horizontal bar graphs, great for quick peeks as you are doing a few laps at Calder Park raceway :).

YES, it makes a great dash addition, just look below.

PS:The wolf also has P.I.N. security, so the ignition will not start without the pin number.  You can turn this on and off at will, so you mechanic doesn't have to know the number

 

4. If you have an older Wolf, can you upgrade it to a V4, and if so how much does it cost?

Don't think so.  

5. Does either of them have any fundamental advantages over the other? I know that the current Wolf has more load points, but looking at cars tuned with PowerFC's power curves, the amount the PowerFC seems to be more than adequate. I think having more tuning points would just mean more work.

Don't know anything about the Pfc features, but if you look up the links provided previously you should make a adiquate evaluation.

Just remember, that a ecu is ONLY as good as the people who tune them.  It has been far from smooth sailing for me, but it's getting there.  

6. How much is the Wolf with hand controller?

As previously stated  

That's about all I can think of now. Thanks in advance!

PS: I have modified (seperated the screen and the keypad) myself, to create a neater install :D.

Originally posted by Clint32

The memory catridge would be good, have one map set for low boost pump fuel and another for high boost and better fuel, only take a few mins to change over, not like a full reprogram for Fc

You can actually keep the cartridge plugged into the ecu and change from one map (ecu's internal map) to the other (cartridge) in a matter a seconds (3 presses of a button). Great for cruising and saving fuel, then if you want to have a little fun just switch maps.

I myself only drive my car on weekends, so i always want to have some fun :P.

(unfortunately i sometimes don't have time to take it out then :))

thanks Al :P

are there many good tuners in qld, mainly brisbane for the wolf?? ive heard there are plenty in WA, and that the PFC is the preferred one of the eastern states....

what about self tuning? basic tuning, not pro stuff, just for getting it to a safe lvl to DRIVE to the pro tuner shop?? planning on some upgrades which wont be done near a tuning shop and havent touched on the tuning side of things at all.

p.s. utter I.T. geek here, learning software/interface is no challange :)

Originally posted by Steve-SST

You will be happy with your PFC  but expect high dyno costs or wait till the Datalogit is ready for GTS Skylines before tuning.

Well, dyno costs will be high no matter what ECU you have - workshops charge for time spent on the dyno rather than $X for X type of ECU. I plan on keeping those costs down by doing as much road tuning as I can before taking it into the workshop for fine tuning - but without a knock sensor on the Wolf I wouldn't be able to do that unless I bought the external knock sensor. How much does that cost and how does it interface with the Wolf? Do you think in the next version they will allow it to read the factory knock sensors?

On the road tuning? famous last words :( How can you tell your af ratio, unless you have an af ratio gauge. I know the base timing on the powerfc is quite advanced, probably due to the 100+ron pump fuel available in japan. be very careful. The ecu will always only be as good as the tuner, steve's been tuning wolf's for ages and due to that doesnt need a great deal of time to tune the car.

Well, I'm sure that any cost savings that Steve could give me on programming the Wold would be more than negated by the travel costs between Sydney and Perth :(

I won't be able to tell my AF ratio with a road tune, but I will have the knock sensor to keep it safe. Then when in the rough area of making good power without pinging, I'll take it to Unigroup or somewhere for fine tuning. Hopefully should cost under $200.

JimX, I think your reliance on the factory knock snesor is a little bit misguided, when you have your PFC you'll see what I mean. It shows a knock level, that means virtually nothing, and it's up to the user to determine the safe knock level.

I think Steve was suggesting that tuning a Wolf is much quicker than the PFC with HC. Wolf comes with laptop software which is excellent, and really reduves the time it takes to tune. Even with the Datalogit ($1000?) which is a huge improvement over the HC the PFC will still take longer to tune.

I believe that the lastest range of Wolfs are coming out with a base map, how good it is I have no idea, maybe Steve can share his thoughts.

It appears that the boost controller is quite advanced.

Looking at the software you can trim boost with regards to air temperature, engine temperature, throttle position and also select different boost levels for different rpm positions.

Here's the screen grab.. 30k.

Using a Turbosmart Singe stage BC and the wolf you basically wind the boost controller all the way out which would normally give stupid amounts of boost but instead of having the aircraft switch it plugs into the wolf and it turns the soleniod off and on at a super quick rate to control the boost level.

The R32's don't have any sort of solanoid standard as they don't have a staged boost like the R33.

So for all those R32 owners you have to out lay another $198 for the wolf solanoid.

Or is it really as simple as using a Singe stage bleeder? Surely the solanoid wouldn't last very long switching on and off super quickly as it is no designed for it.?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I don't think you should add it up like that! It sounds much better at $21 per issue. I don't see any problem there if you enjoy the process and the result. I really like the magazine side of it with all the little tidbits and facts. Also, if anything, these forums are all about spending unreasonable amounts of money on hobbys. I wouldn't call it a self-help group because people generally suggest to spend more
    • I put another 2 layers of putty and still getting pinholes. Think i might either try the filler first then putty or just leave the little specs of guidecoat as is and get primer to fill it in. I think i misread understood what you said above when you said my glazing putty wasnt enough for the size of the area. I thought you meant 1 coat and i needed to. But i think what you meant was that I needed filler first? I also went a bit too far out the repair area as my spreader is a bit large.
    • You do sorta. In my instance they were little specs and I didn't even think they'd be pin holes but it all makes sense now. Huge learnings there!
    • Ah ok that makes sense and it's where i think i went wrong because before when i put filler then putty, i didn't have this issue and now i do because i only put 1 coat of putty. Thanks for that heaps man, it's a good way to put it! With my putty I'm using the dolphin glaze which i just saw it says finishing putty lol. I didnt put filler cause it was a shallow area but i see what you're saying. Also I'm an idiot, i just realised that while i put new putty there are pinholes! I probably saw it before and ignored it for whatever reason. I think because i thought putty is used to fill pin holes that itself wont make pinholes but that's incorrect of course. I feel silly now haha. ok I think I know what to do next. Thanks man!
    • Yes correct, the guide coat is showing low spots, in this instance the low spots are pin holes. I agree wetting the areas makes it more visible (but you can see it's there before you wet it as well lol).  Once the panel is flat, the guide coat will be gone  
×
×
  • Create New...