Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Have a little newb question here, I started my car yesterday and noticed I didnt have any vacuum when idling, it shows just above 0 on my boost gauge(aftermarket), but when i rev it it goes down. Would this be a vacuum leak? would this be related to the CAS, cause I advanced the timing a little bit to trouble shoot the sputtering.

My factory gauge is plug in behind the balance tube, but doesnt read a thing, might be broken.

And my greddy is tapped in the vacuum underneath the FPR, that goes from the throttle chamber, under the tb cover and to the canister.

The purple one on this diagram:

RB26%20Vacuum%20Diagram.rev3.JPG

I also plugged my greddy behind the balance tube before and it wasnt reading a thing, would there be something wrong with a boost source going to the balance tube.

Any help would be appreciated.

R32 GT-R

Thanks

Edited by Waderzila
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267390-no-vacuum-at-idle/
Share on other sites

What?

You cant possibly have zero vacuum on idle...the engine wouldnt be running if there was zero!

You must have a hole in the hose somewhere, or its unplugged...try getting someone to suck/blow in the hose and you read the guage.

where is the vaccum line from the guage run to? before or after throttle body? car probly wouldnt run if there was no vaccum....

Well the aftermarket one is tapped into the vacuum underneath the FPR, that goes from the throttle chamber, under the tb cover and to the canister.

The purple one on the diagram.

And, my factory gauge is plugged in behind the balance tube.

The car runs like a dream, boost fine and idle great.

where is the vaccum line from the guage run to? before or after throttle body? car probly wouldnt run if there was no vaccum....

Well the aftermarket one is tapped into the vacuum underneath the FPR, that goes from the throttle chamber, under the tb cover and to the canister.

The purple one on the diagram.

And, my factory gauge is plugged in behind the balance tube.

The car runs like a dream, boost fine and idle great.

there are two lines going to the canister, if you have the gauge hooked up to the one below the throttle body, it won't work.

how are the hoses to and from the canister plumbed, if you are using one of them for boost gauge?

Currently, my boost controller (vac source) is T'd into the vacumn line beneath the fuel reg (pink line), and it does not read vacuum on idle, it reads zero. When I put my foot down, it will read vac for a little bit, then builds boost as normal. My stock boost gauge on the other hand reads vac on idle, sits above 7 on the stock boost gauge and goes up normal when I put my foot down.

I use to have my vac source T'd from the fuel reg line (and it reads the same as the boost gauge), but my understanding was thats its not the best place to T into, although I've been driving around like that for a while and car was running fine. Last week my engine developed an air leak from the throttle body, so I took the car to Bel Garage to have them fix it up and I also asked them to fix up the vacuum line. When I got the car back, I can see that they T'd the vac source from that line below the fuel reg line and it does not read vac anymore on idle. Car runs fine.

In either case, you should definitly get vac reading on your stock boost gauge when car is on idle. When you put your foot down, the gauage should move up to neutural then build positive boost pressure. If you don't get any vac reading or boost reading on your stock boost gauge, replace the vac line that goes to the sender.

Edited by __PhaseShiftDown
there are two lines going to the canister, if you have the gauge hooked up to the one below the throttle body, it won't work.

how are the hoses to and from the canister plumbed, if you are using one of them for boost gauge?

I have the gauge tapped into the purple-pink one on the diagram on the plenum side and my boost controller is plugged into that same line but on the turbo side of the motor. That line is not the one below the throttle body.

Edited by Waderzila
In either case, you should definitly get vac reading on your stock boost gauge when car is on idle. When you put your foot down, the gauage should move up to neutural then build positive boost pressure. If you don't get any vac reading or boost reading on your stock boost gauge, replace the vac line that goes to the sender.

My stock boost gauge is plugged into the boost port under injector 6, and is not reading anything. Maybe the vac line is broke, but i remember trying my aftermarket gauge on that same boost port and it wasnt reading anything either. Would there be a problem with that boost source?

Im just trying to figure out if I have a vacuum leak-boost leak.Tonight, Im gonna plug my aftermarket gauge on the fuel pressure regulator line and see if I have vacuum. Ill let you know what happens.

Thanks again

Edited by Waderzila

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...