Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is that good or bad?

EDIT: By the way. I read this old school info sheet form R31 skyline club ( the last of the mass produced aus skylines).

It states tha the RB20DET's should be fitted with RB30ET turbo's for good simple power upgrade. So seeing as many 20's have 25 turbo's I thought a 30 turbo would be similarly good.

Apparently not.. meh

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/2/24/Nissan6s2.jpg

Edited by reNEGaDe88

Well I'd be using something native to an RB twin cam if possible because it means more factory bits should fit together , less customisation means cheaper conversion generally .

I reckon a ceramic R32 era turbo is a better thing for an R31 era RB20DET if you speaking strictly factory parts .

You may even find that an R33 25DETs turbo works ok but I dunno where the factory management can get you if its expecting to see a really small bush bearing turbo (NICS type thing) .

I've never had one but it sounds like RB20DETs need all the help they can get in so far as getting the turbo pumping goes .

Bush bearing turbos are always going to bit a bit lazy to get going (oil sheer drag) so are often small to keep the exhaust gas velocity up .

You sort of get the worst of both worlds by fitting a larger bush turbo because the turbine housing (VLT T3) is larger meaning the exhause gas speed will be lower from a 2L six at lowish engine revs .

Once the engine revs climb the gas speed comes up but you still have the extra oil sheer drag to overcome so you get two stages or excuses for lag so to speak .

Also T3 era compressors and turbines are pretty dated now days so don't tend to work over as broad an engine speed range as current units .

If you really like RB20s and R31s a later RB20 with its later turbo and engine electrics is a better way to go IMO , an RB25DET better again .

A .

Yeh disco. I didn't see how putting a heavy steel wheel'd, bush bearing turbo would work well on a RB20DET. It would be ultra laggy.

I was just clarifying. That document might have been written in like 1996. So AM turbo's were limited and Silvertop RB20's were not as widely/readily available.

PS. I had the VL T3 turbo on my R31 for 2 years. Ran a bov for 6 months, then got a FMIC and had no bov = flutter. Then for a year I ran a dose pipe. so 1.5 years of compressor surge. The turbo still has very little shaft play. Same as when I put it on 2 years prior. They are 20 year old turbo's. And still going strong. Can't be that bad.

Is that good or bad?

EDIT: By the way. I read this old school info sheet form R31 skyline club ( the last of the mass produced aus skylines).

It states tha the RB20DET's should be fitted with RB30ET turbo's for good simple power upgrade. So seeing as many 20's have 25 turbo's I thought a 30 turbo would be similarly good.

Apparently not.. meh

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/2/24/Nissan6s2.jpg

Ancient tech document.

I would ignore that.

If for whatever reason you had to use one of those Nissan/Garrett T3s I would have picked on the slightly smaller variants off a later intercooled FJ20ET or Z18ET . They had 0.48 AR turbine housings (vs 0.63) and smaller trim compressors , I think lower ratio compressor housings as well .

Your calls but really the only thing that's right is the mounting flange on the turbine housing , the rest shouldn't have escaped into the 1990s let alone the noughties ...

Wouldn't the youngest of the VLTs be more than 20 yrs old ?

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...