Jump to content
SAU Community

Cutting Springs V Reseating Springs With Some Of Coil Up Top

123456

By 123456,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

123456 Proficient

123456

Posted
Posted (edited)

My springs are hard as hell, insanely hard, and it's standard ride height so instead of getting new springs i'm thinking about cutting em.. i know this is dodgy but yeh,

A friend of mine said it's possible to take the spring off, and pull it up slightly so that one of the coils is sitting over the top of the tower part (mine has around 4 coils left over) and this will lower it without me having to cut em

I know it's dodgy but.. yeh curious if anyones ever heard of that second method?

Car is a r32 gts-t with aftermarket coilovers not sure which brand

Edited by 123456
Messiah Mentor

Messiah

Posted
Posted
....prefer to work on performance a bit if that was the case :P....

What are you talking about?!?!?!

Suspension is a key part of performance. What do you want to do, work on the engine then destroy any ability to use the benefits.

As mentioned above, dont be a dumbass a just do it properly.

123456 Proficient

123456

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

lol, you guys buy my car and you can do whatever you want with it, ok

My car already handles better than it goes by far, i cant hardly kick the back out,

People lower their cars all the time FYI. by putting shorter springs.. it's just shorter.. and they're already tight as all hell.. either way the car sits lower.. because of a shorter spring..

So no one i'm assuming has heard of pulling the coils up top like i explained earlier?

Edited by 123456
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

never heard of pulling them over the strut top, and I don't understand how you could keep them in place and ensure they don't rise or fall.

plenty of people have cut springs and survived, just keep it to a decent length (eg 1 coil).

However...you said "My springs are hard as hell, insanely hard".

Cutting a spring makes it harder by the % you remove (eg if you cut one coil of 8 it is 9/8ths firmer). You will lower it but make it firmer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...