Jump to content
SAU Community

Testing For Faulty/fake Z32 Afm

Kwyjibo

By Kwyjibo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just bought a used Z32 AFM and I'm a little worried its a fake as it has the Nissan logo on the side and I have heard some people say the dodgy ones have this. Apart from that the JECS sticker looks fine and the mesh is good(not sure what a 'bad'one looks like though).

I was wondering if I could test it easily by checking the voltage of my standard AFM under 0 load at idle and up to around 5000 RPM, then wire in the Z32 AFM and do the same. Am I correct in thinking that the voltage should be linear against the air flow, and that the reading of the Z32 AFM should be approx 20% lower than the standard? I just don't want to do the test and think its faulty then find out that they are both meant to read the same up to the certain point, then the Z32 starts to read lower after say 3v or so.

Also I know this will run the car lean for a second, will this be ok if I do it for a second while in neutral with 0 load?

Cheers,

ADrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267873-testing-for-faultyfake-z32-afm/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

this is what a fake z32 looks like

youll note from the pics, the label is crooked, the mesh looks cheap and nasty

the unit works but the voltage is all whakco and runs like a bucket of crap

a legit Z32 should be around 0.5v at idle

should have an orange JECS label on it

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/photo...z32/page_01.htm

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

nah the nissan logo is on the plastic casting, i originally thought it didnt contain nissan

but it does, as jecs/bosch made AFMS for nissan

whats the issue with yours?

what car are you trying to use it on?

what happens at idle?

what ECU are you using?

you cant it with a stock ecu

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Nothing wrong with it as I don't have an ECU to run it on yet, I just stressed out when I saw a thread about them and mine looked the same(Nissan logo, sticker has JECS at bottom left rather than ÚNISIA JECS CORPORATION however it doesn't look dodgy). I was just hoping to test it in some way before I payed for a tune then had to go back but I guess its a legitimate one. Might try to quickly hook it up at idle on stock ECU just to see what voltage it reads.

Edited by Kwyjibo
Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok just tested the AFM on standard ECU at stand still and logged the following voltages so if the AFM's are linear in their readings its a fake.

Standard AFM: idle - 1.1v

2000 rpm - 1.45v

3000 rpm - 1.7v

4000 rpm - 2v

'Z32' AFM : idle - 1.1v

2000 rpm - 1.5v

3000 rpm 1.7v

4000 rpm 2v

So can we confirm that the readings are in fact linear so I should be reading much lower at idle, like does it read lower only above a certain airflow(Paulr33 I know you said it should read 0.5 on idle but is this confirmed?)

  • 4 months later...
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Just because it idle's or whatever doesn't neccesarily mean it'll work in my book

That way to interpret the results are,

- if its not 0.5v with ignition on (NOT idle) its definitely a fake, or stuffed

- if it is 0.5v with ignition on (NOT idle) it may or may not be a fake

So you can only confirm the negative with that test.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

interesting, so the aftermarket oe REPLACEMENT afm's from bosch are no good? why are they a oe replacment?

putting a bigger airflow meter on with standard ecu is pointless. just like throwing a big four barrel on a mini... unless tuned you will go backwards.

also the voltage logs above appear to have no real gain in putting a z32 on? as its outputing the same voltage? ie it will max out at the same cfm as standard it would appear.

SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
Posted

im obviously going to tune it. going to run a z32 with a nistune board. but i purchased a z32 afm the other day and only when i got home and started preparing the plug i noticed it is onli a 5 pin plug and socket, not 6. so is this a dead give away or do some come with the 5 pin plug, its in great condition, the sticker is straight and looks gen. i contacted the previous own how still claims is gen and said i can get my money back if im not happy. also doesnt have the nissan logo anywhere????

here r a few pics

post-46165-1254397634_thumb.jpg

post-46165-1254397699_thumb.jpg

post-46165-1254397749_thumb.jpg

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted

The voltage logs were RPM vs AFM voltage.

Air flow is not always proportional to engine RPMs. Although the tests were done in neutral, putting the Z32 AFM on would have effectively changed the tune of the car and hence you could not say that load was equal on both tests.

The only real way to test it would be by comparing a known working Z32 AFM against the suspect one.

Even still, I wouldn't have expected the voltages to be exactly the same.

It could be possible that someone has gotten an RB20 or 25 AFM and put an orange sticker on it. I would say it's very likely since your AFM has a round shape 5 pin plug and Z32 AFMs have a square shape 6 pin plug.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

have you messured the diametre of it?

rb25 and z32 are both 80mm so a similar voltage would be expected i spose.

also z32 is a old stlye hot wire design (thin wires in the airpath), where as 25 is a hot film design (flat plate in the airstream)

thats not a z32 plug... mayby a late model one? if its got 30p anywhere in the part number its a z32 series.

could it be out of a laural or something?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...