Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just bought a used Z32 AFM and I'm a little worried its a fake as it has the Nissan logo on the side and I have heard some people say the dodgy ones have this. Apart from that the JECS sticker looks fine and the mesh is good(not sure what a 'bad'one looks like though).

I was wondering if I could test it easily by checking the voltage of my standard AFM under 0 load at idle and up to around 5000 RPM, then wire in the Z32 AFM and do the same. Am I correct in thinking that the voltage should be linear against the air flow, and that the reading of the Z32 AFM should be approx 20% lower than the standard? I just don't want to do the test and think its faulty then find out that they are both meant to read the same up to the certain point, then the Z32 starts to read lower after say 3v or so.

Also I know this will run the car lean for a second, will this be ok if I do it for a second while in neutral with 0 load?

Cheers,

ADrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267873-testing-for-faultyfake-z32-afm/
Share on other sites

this is what a fake z32 looks like

youll note from the pics, the label is crooked, the mesh looks cheap and nasty

the unit works but the voltage is all whakco and runs like a bucket of crap

a legit Z32 should be around 0.5v at idle

should have an orange JECS label on it

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/photo...z32/page_01.htm

nah the nissan logo is on the plastic casting, i originally thought it didnt contain nissan

but it does, as jecs/bosch made AFMS for nissan

whats the issue with yours?

what car are you trying to use it on?

what happens at idle?

what ECU are you using?

you cant it with a stock ecu

Nothing wrong with it as I don't have an ECU to run it on yet, I just stressed out when I saw a thread about them and mine looked the same(Nissan logo, sticker has JECS at bottom left rather than ÚNISIA JECS CORPORATION however it doesn't look dodgy). I was just hoping to test it in some way before I payed for a tune then had to go back but I guess its a legitimate one. Might try to quickly hook it up at idle on stock ECU just to see what voltage it reads.

Edited by Kwyjibo

Ok just tested the AFM on standard ECU at stand still and logged the following voltages so if the AFM's are linear in their readings its a fake.

Standard AFM: idle - 1.1v

2000 rpm - 1.45v

3000 rpm - 1.7v

4000 rpm - 2v

'Z32' AFM : idle - 1.1v

2000 rpm - 1.5v

3000 rpm 1.7v

4000 rpm 2v

So can we confirm that the readings are in fact linear so I should be reading much lower at idle, like does it read lower only above a certain airflow(Paulr33 I know you said it should read 0.5 on idle but is this confirmed?)

  • 4 months later...
Just because it idle's or whatever doesn't neccesarily mean it'll work in my book

That way to interpret the results are,

- if its not 0.5v with ignition on (NOT idle) its definitely a fake, or stuffed

- if it is 0.5v with ignition on (NOT idle) it may or may not be a fake

So you can only confirm the negative with that test.

interesting, so the aftermarket oe REPLACEMENT afm's from bosch are no good? why are they a oe replacment?

putting a bigger airflow meter on with standard ecu is pointless. just like throwing a big four barrel on a mini... unless tuned you will go backwards.

also the voltage logs above appear to have no real gain in putting a z32 on? as its outputing the same voltage? ie it will max out at the same cfm as standard it would appear.

im obviously going to tune it. going to run a z32 with a nistune board. but i purchased a z32 afm the other day and only when i got home and started preparing the plug i noticed it is onli a 5 pin plug and socket, not 6. so is this a dead give away or do some come with the 5 pin plug, its in great condition, the sticker is straight and looks gen. i contacted the previous own how still claims is gen and said i can get my money back if im not happy. also doesnt have the nissan logo anywhere????

here r a few pics

post-46165-1254397634_thumb.jpg

post-46165-1254397699_thumb.jpg

post-46165-1254397749_thumb.jpg

The voltage logs were RPM vs AFM voltage.

Air flow is not always proportional to engine RPMs. Although the tests were done in neutral, putting the Z32 AFM on would have effectively changed the tune of the car and hence you could not say that load was equal on both tests.

The only real way to test it would be by comparing a known working Z32 AFM against the suspect one.

Even still, I wouldn't have expected the voltages to be exactly the same.

It could be possible that someone has gotten an RB20 or 25 AFM and put an orange sticker on it. I would say it's very likely since your AFM has a round shape 5 pin plug and Z32 AFMs have a square shape 6 pin plug.

have you messured the diametre of it?

rb25 and z32 are both 80mm so a similar voltage would be expected i spose.

also z32 is a old stlye hot wire design (thin wires in the airpath), where as 25 is a hot film design (flat plate in the airstream)

thats not a z32 plug... mayby a late model one? if its got 30p anywhere in the part number its a z32 series.

could it be out of a laural or something?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...