Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats only if its the Neo engine,

Non-Neo (R33 S2) alot more work to get the Power FC working

Dezz what engine is going in?? and what loom you using??

Pretty sure she's got a Neo engine...So the 34 GTT pfc is the go?

If so, anyone got the link to this pin54 trick?

and no idea on the loom sorry...

You CAN use the R34 GT-t unit on the s2 R33 engine, but it takes a fair bit of internal modification. I've got it running in my car, so I know - Mark @ Hills Motorsports can do the mods, and has done mine, Duncan's, and about 10 others. I *think* it's around $700-odd for the modifications to be done (assuming you already own a PFC).

Mark told me he can get pretty much any RB-engine PFC running any RB engine, so give him a call... (02) 9899-9962.

As for the secret tweak to pin 54 (or 51?), do a search in this section for "Secret Squirrel Tweak" posted by EGA41T or wolverine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4568387
Share on other sites

Thats only if its the Neo engine,

Non-Neo (R33 S2) alot more work to get the Power FC working

Dezz what engine is going in?? and what loom you using??

nup,

plug and play

depends on the actual series build of the ecu itself. not the neo engine or non-neo stuff.

my feb 97 S1 ran with an R34 GTT power-fc. plus the secret squirrel trick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4568394
Share on other sites

nup,

plug and play

depends on the actual series build of the ecu itself. not the neo engine or non-neo stuff.

my feb 97 S1 ran with an R34 GTT power-fc. plus the secret squirrel trick

i don't think so.....

1st the injectors r in the wrong way for a feb 97(ALL S1 stagea need mods done to work!!) have studied for 6 weeks about this!

Dezz if you need any info pm me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4568884
Share on other sites

i don't think so.....

1st the injectors r in the wrong way for a feb 97(ALL S1 stagea need mods done to work!!) have studied for 6 weeks about this!

Dezz if you need any info pm me.

sir

I can assure you it depends on the ecu model and NOT the neo or non-neo engines

due to differences in ecu models there are differences in loom wiring

series 1 has 3 or 4 different ecu's, some work with the power-fc others need more configuring. mine was pretty much plug and play

yes, certainly other mods are required to get a S1 and a R34 GTT P-fc to work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4569126
Share on other sites

S1 stagea came with the S2 R33 rb25det (ALL OF THE S1 Stagea need mods for the R34 Gtt PFC to work!!)

S2 stagea came with the R34 neo rb25det (if the car is a manual, R34 Gtt PFC will work with the pin 51 trick)

But because its going into an R32 your A/c might not work, which is another problem with the PFC working on the S1 stagea (Needs mods to the PFC to make it work), could be the same for the R32?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4569298
Share on other sites

S1 stagea came with the S2 R33 rb25det (ALL OF THE S1 Stagea need mods for the R34 Gtt PFC to work!!)

S2 stagea came with the R34 neo rb25det (if the car is a manual, R34 Gtt PFC will work with the pin 51 trick)

But because its going into an R32 your A/c might not work, which is another problem with the PFC working on the S1 stagea (Needs mods to the PFC to make it work), could be the same for the R32?

yes all of the S1 stagea's come with the S2 R33 RB25, but tangles is correct in saying that in the S1 there were 3 different ecu pinout configurations used, they all are still the same S2 R33 ecu internals with the R34 style plug, but the pinouts vary between the three.

one of the configurations was pritty much the same as the R34/S2 stagea pinout. tangles must be lucky enough to have this one. also according to fast one of the S1 ecu variations was only used for about 3 months of production.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4569390
Share on other sites

Sounds like I'll have to get the engine number and put it into fast to find out what series this engine is...?

you cant run engine numbers through fast. but if you post up a pic of the engine there are a few sure ways to tell if its a neo engine or not, even if the plastic cover is missing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4569394
Share on other sites

S1 stagea came with the S2 R33 rb25det (ALL OF THE S1 Stagea need mods for the R34 Gtt PFC to work!!)

S2 stagea came with the R34 neo rb25det (if the car is a manual, R34 Gtt PFC will work with the pin 51 trick)

But because its going into an R32 your A/c might not work, which is another problem with the PFC working on the S1 stagea (Needs mods to the PFC to make it work), could be the same for the R32?

Pretty sure its a neo...

Car is an auto by the way...auto will be built (not sure on specs) but definitely not going to be standard....

aircon/heater etc will probably be removed too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4569925
Share on other sites

yes all of the S1 stagea's come with the S2 R33 RB25, but tangles is correct in saying that in the S1 there were 3 different ecu pinout configurations used, they all are still the same S2 R33 ecu internals with the R34 style plug, but the pinouts vary between the three.

one of the configurations was pritty much the same as the R34/S2 stagea pinout. tangles must be lucky enough to have this one. also according to fast one of the S1 ecu variations was only used for about 3 months of production.

Thats funny because i too have a Feb '97 Stagea (Same as Tangles) and i had to mod my Power FC to make it work.??

must be just my stagea then, i got all my info from the jap stagea service manual.

And the S1 service manual ecu pinout shows mine (09/96 - 08/97 engine harness no. 24011-0V100) same as mine and Tangles, but for some reason he didn't have to mod his Power FC??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267921-stagea-powerfc/#findComment-4569937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...