Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

will have to ask ken for that one, he purchased it from slide performance

pm him tomorrow 'KEN-R34'

for the record.. ive got my hands on an r34 gt-t too now, i cannot wait to burn this stock clutch out and put a 3 puck in it!! muahaha

Edited by snozzle
  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...

changing flywheel bolts is not a bad idea, if they have been used over and over you most probably want to change them, if the clutch has never been changed, i wouldnt be too fussed

the clutch install will be identical however removing and re-installing the gearbox will involve a few more steps, if you need any specific help just PM.

hope that helps

  • 3 years later...

question gents how did you guys manage to remove the topmost bolt on the exhaust side. Did you have to remove the dump pipe at all cant see anything fitting in there and its harder than even the starter bolt. This is the one i have left before dropping the box.

managed to take out that bolt i was asking about before. Now my question is i have taken all the bolts pretty certain. But the box in not dislodging from the engine. I pulled out the pin that holds the throw out bearing too

Hey Bryce, im doing it too today on my Stagea. I know the bolt your talking about, mine was even worse (GTR box is longer)!

The box should start to separate with abit of a wiggle, if not, you must have missed one.

had the same problem, as my starter motor moulding was fouling on the tunnel. Had to get really close, then rotate it to position at the last minute to line up & pop in.

Did you use a clutch aligning tool or by feel?

The aligning tool I used wasn't perfect either. You have to feel & equal the distance between the clutch & pressure plate through the three gaps where the pressure plate springs attach to the diaphragm. Tighten the bolts up evenly & oppositely. Make sure you can move the aligning tool a few times to make sure it moves.

As long as those three gaps are fairly equal, it will be pretty much spot on. This the first time I've actually used an alignment tool (the apprentice did a clutch in his 33 & I thought I'd give it a go).

  • 2 years later...
  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
×
×
  • Create New...