Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if the front/dump pipe of a r33 gtst is the same as the ones for a s1 stag... dont see why it wouldnbt be as their both running rb25det's.

Justjap also have the same pipe listed for r33/r32 and wgnc34's....

Thinking about buying a 3" bellmouth zx force dump pipe tomorrow for the stag. Then time for a retune of SAFCII, SITC and EBC and i think im done on engine mods till its time for a bigger whistling friend. Maybe time for some slotted rotors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268139-frontdump-pipe-same-as-r33/
Share on other sites

I think if you buy one of the cheap brand dump pipes the R33 & R32 are the same pipe, the one I got for my 32 didn't sit quite right, so I suspect it was an R33 one. I used the one off my 32 on my S2 stagea and I had to cut it and realign the angle at the bottom straight section. Also had to add about 25mm length to the pipe to get it to meet up properly, this is for the S2 though.

Well chad how about I be the test dummy and ill post up how it goes :P

Also when are we taking both our racing heart equiped stags out with jetskis in tow?

When you tell me where i can get a decent tow bar from.

JJR dump pipe i got of justjap was listed for s2 .

think JJR forgot about the crossmember. had cut and straighten out the front/dump to fit it.

not alot of work. but for one that is listed to fit, it should fit

had the same thing with my s2 and the just jap bellmouth.. the quality at the turbo end flange was very average to.

i would not recomend the jjr bellmouth as you will need to spend the extra money going to the exhaust shop for them to fix it

Ok so it did fit.

When i first started the car their was a VERY ANOYING WEIIR vibration coming through the floor of the car around the G box area. Last for about 20 secs.. then dissapeared? Thinking it might have been hitting the floor of the stag, then settled itself down?

Drove around for a bit to let the beast warm up then gave it some. Car hit highest boost it ever has (13.something psi) so I turned down the ebc till it was hitting 12. So it must have made a difference :D

When you tell me where i can get a decent tow bar from.

Well the place I got mine from was well priced but they Fu(ked my rear bar (ended up getting it resprayed for me) and the interior needed some adjusting by myself before it all layed flat in the boot. Want to meet up so you can check it out?

So this vibrating was their thismornign again....

Took of the G box support cos it was might close to that and buzzed 2 mm off it on the very outer edge near the dump(its not sturctual dw!) Start up and its gone... Then it rattle a tiny bit again grrrr!

Realised its prob a mm or 2 from the floor of the stag and sometimes will vibrate on it but only for first couple of seconds or randomly for a couple of seconds when going slow.. Ill see how it goes and if it does it at all while cruising or at traffic lights.

Well the place I got mine from was well priced but they Fu(ked my rear bar (ended up getting it resprayed for me) and the interior needed some adjusting by myself before it all layed flat in the boot. Want to meet up so you can check it out?

Sure man, sounds good. I should be picking up the Stag on Wednesday, I'll prob be cruising around all weekend in it :P

So this vibrating was their thismornign again....

Took of the G box support cos it was might close to that and buzzed 2 mm off it on the very outer edge near the dump(its not sturctual dw!) Start up and its gone... Then it rattle a tiny bit again grrrr!

Realised its prob a mm or 2 from the floor of the stag and sometimes will vibrate on it but only for first couple of seconds or randomly for a couple of seconds when going slow.. Ill see how it goes and if it does it at all while cruising or at traffic lights.

If it keeps doing it just take it down to an exhaust shop and they should be able to heat the pipe and bend it slightly, if its stainless it might be to hard to bend.

yeah it only just taps it a tiny bit when it first starts then its gone....? Might loosen off the cat bolts a tiny tiny bit and see if that drops it down abit...

If that doesnt work ill take it off spray the seciton of pipe and under car where i think its rubbing drive around for a week or soo. rip it off and c where the paints gone to work out what i need to either smack flat or remove or if i need to get it bent slightly.

yeah it only just taps it a tiny bit when it first starts then its gone....? Might loosen off the cat bolts a tiny tiny bit and see if that drops it down abit...

If that doesnt work ill take it off spray the seciton of pipe and under car where i think its rubbing drive around for a week or soo. rip it off and c where the paints gone to work out what i need to either smack flat or remove or if i need to get it bent slightly.

Yep that'll work if you haven't got a gas set and its just touching in one small area.

Hey Chris, good to hear you got it on.

When i fitted mine myself, if you remember i wasn't too sure if it was on/sealed 100%. So when i got my 100k service, i got the guys at Boostworx to have a look at it. They told me a couple of bolts had dropped off (probably because i didn't/couldn't get them tight enough to start with) and they redid the entire thing properly. Maybe it's a bolt rattling around somewhere?

Hi nick! Long time no see :P Yeah their a prick to get at those bolts but it wont be one loose.... Got to them all in the end did change one of them to a 6mm allen key so it had a smaller head cos the bolt was fouling on the dump.

Dont really want boostworx doing much to the stag apart from tuning safcII and SITC truth be known, but we'll keep why off the forums :( cos their good blokes.

Well I went to D N T performance (exhaust shop here in adelaide) on sat to get a 3" off cut to do the intake pipe mod, while i was their I told them about the dump pip tapping the floor. They said to unbolt the cat back and just pull the dump pipe downwards to bend it a tiny bit. Yesterday arvo gave it a good yank and its all sweeettttt :blink:

your alot more game than i would be, pulling down on the pipe, i'd be worried about damaging the turbo casting. lol

just take it to the exhaust shop you went to and see if they'll fix it up for you, if you go in they aren't too busy, and you have cash with you, they'll probably fix it up cheap for you. it will only need to be cut and re-angled, maybe a small length added into it. shouldn't need to take the pipe out to fix up, we didn't when i fitted mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...