Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now this has been goin on for afew months, and knowing that my old radiator had a slight leak, i didnt think much of it.

anywayz last week i bought a 40mm aluminium radiator from just jap and did a full collant change.

after topping up, bleeding it properly etc i decided to check the level afew days later. overflow bottle was between MAX and MIN, so i topped it up thinkin that maybe i didnt fill the radiator to the top durin the change.

just noticed today theres no water in the overflow bottle !?

i am not leakin any coolant, il take the car for a good drive then look under the car and nothin is dripping, hose clamps r nice n tight. doesnt look like anything is coming from the water pump either

engine oil is clean as, did a service 4 weeks ago and the whole amount of engine oil did come back out (after 6000 odd kms), no signs of water in the oil

what could it be?? any help fellas would be great !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268269-r33-overflow-bottle/
Share on other sites

Although you have checked when you turn the engine off you may be leaking water from one of the hoses under the plenum. We have a problem with an rb26 where it doesnt leak when driving however approx 3-4 minutes after switching off we get a leak- not much it would seem to be coming from a line and the leak is dependant on the radiator pressure (as the pressure drops it leaks).

Get some cardboard and when you next stop slide it under the engine you may have a similar problem.

Just a wild question - How did you bleed it?

Reason why i ask, is because in the manual it states to bring up the engine temp up and turn the heater on 32*celsius and all.

However some mechanics claim its best done when the engine is dead cold, with the engine off.

I have a similar issue that seems to have gone away now after i bled it over and over. The other thing to notice is that the overflow bottle has a hole in the top bit, so maybe while driving it manages to escape through there?(highly doubt it tho)

i blead the system from the little screw on the top of the engine

had it undone until the car got to operating temp and the lil bubbles stopped comin out. didnt take longer then afew mins to blead it

if thats wrong, should i do try bleading it again? how exactly do i do it? while the car is hot, or start it when cold and let it idle until at operating temp while the screw is undone??

thanks

ok i herd that my problem could be the radiator cap

i noticed when i put it on the my new radiator that it still had abit of movement and wasnt sealing 100%, so i bent the little tabs on the cap abit so it can tighten up once i do it up

now i also herd the pressure rating could be wrong?

im goin to buy a new radiator cap, wot pressure ratin do they hav to have?

buy a nismo one? (but very $$)

or just ask for a stock replacement?

  • 3 weeks later...

I had a similar problem and found it was a hair line fracture in the cooling line going to the turbo the little one at the back of the block.

Sorry not very descriptive I'm not a mechanic, if you want I can take a picture and post it for you.

  • 4 weeks later...

Just replace the cap with an OEM item. The Nismo Items are good, however you have to consider that they are rated higher pressures, around 18 psi i think? As opposed to the stock which is 15psi? This will cause MORE strain on the radiator hoses, considering most skylines run the factory hoses which are rusty and "weak" and as a result, the Nismo cap MAY cause the pipes to burst/leak.

Ideally if you changed the hoses to SAMCO or some other stronger item, the Nismo caps would be better.

If you can, try opening the cover over the waterpump. If any sign of rust, then leaky waterpump!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...