Jump to content
SAU Community

My Amp And Subs Are Fine, Until I Switch On The Car And I Get This Buzzing/wining Noise How Do I Fix This?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, having some troubles here. got ur basic system 10inch running atm, amp, speakers etc, when the car is turned off and the systems running its fine, but asoon as the car is switched on theres instantly a strang buzzing/wining kinda sound, lol its getting kinda annoying now soo i think i should sort it out, i think theres some interference with the car and system? can any liners help me out there?

thanx

You said it, interferance.

I'm assuming the sound is coming out of any speakers that are on amps? (possibly all of them.) Whoever has installed it has probably run the RCAs with the power wire, or power wire for something else, and it is corrupting the RCA signal.

What I normally do in this case is get a long set of RCAs that aren't being used in a car (any shitty set will do, ask mates if you don't have any) and just run it from the source unit to the amp. For me (and probably you) that's from the dash to the boot, I normally run it outside the car as it's just a test. Try that, and if the sound goes, then there's your answer fish bulb!

There's other shit you can do, but finding out if the RCAs are being intereferred with and moving them or the power wire causing the problem is the best long term fix.

What type of RCAs do you have?

Out of curiosity, did you run twisted RCA cables? Or standard?

Twisted are said to help with interference...

Out of curiosity, did you run twisted RCA cables? Or standard?

Twisted are said to help with interference...

some twisted pairs run near power or computers will create inductance induced noise?

try running a pair of working rca cables even 2 dollar cheapos outside the car to the boot amp. did the noise go ?

no

try the antenna wire, is it loose or unshielded, they pick up a/c from fans, etc if loose

deck grounded to metal or car harness, try the metal of the car

all power goes down one side of car if its front battery. and rca down the other side,, ALWAYS!!

otherwise look at the grounds for amp, secure, no paint

rca crossing over fuel pump harness? if so move it over or up

does the noise increase with fan on, window heater on? if so check the battery connections, clean , tight ? run a ground wire to alternator bracket bolt to ground on battery.

do you hear whine on alternator, with fan on, heater wires in window on? might be a bad alternator, have it checked with Oscilloscope for A/C ripple ?

a stiffening cap will reduce whine on amps ? removes ripple but alternator must be good to start with?

does the whine increase with rpm.... fans, heaters off? coilpack voltage leakage ? or voltage regulator issues,

might be overcharging a bit ?

name brand RCA dont fix bad whine unless a shield is broken on the old ones. the path of the rca is more critical then brand names

broken ground shield shows up if you run a new wire outside the car, it can also be a bad pre amp portion on the amp, but rare!!

hmm sounds like one of the cables is unshielded and or not shielded properly is it just buzzing or do you get like popping sounds as well ?

you could also check your ground wire

mate had the same thing cos he grounded it poorly

i had the same too now i think of it

  • 3 weeks later...

Ground for the amp. Make sure you scratch away any paint that might be in between the grounding wire and the metal you are grounding it to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...