Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Mount Intercoolers

Core666

By Core666,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Core666 Enthusiast

Core666

Posted
Posted

Where is the best place price wise to hook up a front mount? Greddy or Hybrid or does it even matter?

Would there be any difficulty in installing it in an 96 S2 R33 GTS-t? I need to take the horn out of that space and re-position already

I dont want to get dicked over on an install price either- Hence, dont anyone reply with 'take it to Car Toys' haha

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268482-front-mount-intercoolers/
Share on other sites
Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

take it to car toys hahaha.....joking

umm generally brand name coolers tend to work a bit better IMHO and as regards to fitting most of the coolers are quiet easy to DIY...there are a few threads about them in the DIY section i would think.....in my 33 i had to reposition the Horn but only had to flip it over from where it was mounted before...best places to look for coolers would be on the traders on SAU like Just Jap then the next best bet would be autobarn.....they tend to sometimes have those coolers for a nice price....specially the one at gillies plain or holden hill.....

Most import garages would be able to get a decent price on fitting if you would like it to be done by mechanics

Good luck mate

Core666 Enthusiast

Core666

Posted
  • Author
Posted
take it to car toys hahaha.....joking

umm generally brand name coolers tend to work a bit better IMHO and as regards to fitting most of the coolers are quiet easy to DIY...there are a few threads about them in the DIY section i would think.....in my 33 i had to reposition the Horn but only had to flip it over from where it was mounted before...best places to look for coolers would be on the traders on SAU like Just Jap then the next best bet would be autobarn.....they tend to sometimes have those coolers for a nice price....specially the one at gillies plain or holden hill.....

Most import garages would be able to get a decent price on fitting if you would like it to be done by mechanics

Good luck mate

Thanks for the info mate. Its good to know you can just flip the horn over. I remember seeing a while back Greddy's advertised at autobahn for like $800 for the part. Will suss it out. Did you notice genuine improvement in horsepower and performance after installation?

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted

i picked mine up for $600 thats when the $ was good value lol.....I did notice that the car was running a lot better....horsepower wise i didnt feel a great deal if any....but its to cool air not to force air lol......in the summer you can definately feel it working and ohh it loves the winter chills.....so i reackon that is definately a good investement

Greddy is what i have as well and according to them its not a big pressure drop either and IMHO they work a lot better then those Hybrid types...$800 seems to be general price for coolers now days....

Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted

If i was you, and either didnt have the confidence/time to be fitting it yourself, head to JustJap.com, grab a cooler from there, they do fit well enough, and spend maybe 2-300 on fitting. theres the price of 1 greddy cooler.

Core666 Enthusiast

Core666

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i picked mine up for $600 thats when the $ was good value lol.....I did notice that the car was running a lot better....horsepower wise i didnt feel a great deal if any....but its to cool air not to force air lol......in the summer you can definately feel it working and ohh it loves the winter chills.....so i reackon that is definately a good investement

Greddy is what i have as well and according to them its not a big pressure drop either and IMHO they work a lot better then those Hybrid types...$800 seems to be general price for coolers now days....

Sweet. I was trying to get one for summer but didnt end up with the cash. Reckon I will hook one up in the coming months. Cheers

SLAPS Rising Star

SLAPS

Posted
Posted
ill be getting a HDI Intercooler from Exhaust Technology....i think its like $850 and they can install it for you aswell and i dont think it is much more to do that

Is that the GT or RS core?

HDI GT kits go for 500-550ish where as the RS (100mm) goes for 700ish.

850 imo is a little pricey.

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
ill be getting a HDI Intercooler from Exhaust Technology....i think its like $850 and they can install it for you aswell and i dont think it is much more to do that
Is that the GT or RS core?

HDI GT kits go for 500-550ish where as the RS (100mm) goes for 700ish.

850 imo is a little pricey.

I had an RS HDI in my R and paid 1/2 that price for the cooler without the pipes......used my own pipes

HDI Intercoolers (RS)

Krishy Grand Master

Krishy

Posted
Posted
after seeing a lot of shitty cooler kits and how badly they can fit, id recomend the greddy type m for vaule, fitment and quality.

isc can get you one at a decent enough price.

Thats exactly what i was trying to get to...my Greddy kit bolts straight up and no hassles...so if fitment and quality you want mate then go with a brand name cooler

  • 2 weeks later...
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted
is there a cooler that will fit a r33 gtst without no hasstles? like no cuts or nothing?

my current cooler is greddy, but reo bar is cut.

ummmm, R34 Sidemount. All others will require cutting and drilling of some sort. The one i bought through a mate at work was supposed to be hassle free as it used the stock plumbing, was wrong. Sure it used the stock plumbing, but i had to but up my foglight housing to get the piping to fit from the cooler to the stock plumbing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...