Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you mean automatic gearbox do a search on "shift kit" for a snappier change. If you want to rebuild it to take 300kw then that has been discussed a little while ago too. If you really do mean drive train then you can start by replacing the S1 stuff with RS260 or GTR parts.

i've got a Full auto rebuilt to stage 2. can handle 500hp.

just ran it in. took it back, need a bit more pressure put in it, hope its all good. was ment to pick it up today but they lost power and cant do anything.

should be tomorrow. but as for the wearing in bit. its pretty tough :P

feels just like the normal box when cruising, you may notice it holds gear for the bit longer before changing. and its not rough on the change though.

mech said once its all fixed up, wheels should be chirping when you give it to it :D

thanks for that.

i have read a fair bit on the other threads about mt automatics and cooler upgrades. seems to me that this site really doesnt mind helping out fellow members.

good to see

im also looking for the clear tail lights as mine are dull and look crappy.

steve

thanks for that.

i have read a fair bit on the other threads about mt automatics and cooler upgrades. seems to me that this site really doesnt mind helping out fellow members.

good to see

im also looking for the clear tail lights as mine are dull and look crappy.

steve

Series 2 lights your after. they pop up in the sale section from time to time.

there is also a WANTED TO BUY (WTB) section

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...