Gts Vs Gtst Afm

[G0DZLR]

have finally got a GTST ECU in my GTS+t, idle is lumpy tho, and still doesnt feel like its going as hard as it could...question is is it because the GTS AFM is the wrong one suited to a GTST ECU? have run the GTS ECU for a couple of months and havnt had any issues with idle etc, had heaps of low-down power, seem to have lost this when i put the T ECU in....

ideas?

[paulr33]

they are different

and you cant interchange them - be careful you are probably leaning your engine out

do it properly before you break something

[Super Drager]

one question, do you have DE injectors? if so, the GTSt injectors are about 100cc larger so that could be causing the problem?

[G0DZLR]

nup got the GTST injectors in, will get an AFM when i have the money to, using the DE ECU for now, seems to be running it fine anyway, just lacks a bit in topend.

[G0DZLR]

another question...will a GTST AFM be plug and play on my wiring loom? assuming i put the GTST ECU back in....like i wont need to redo the loom or anything? (heard it from a mate, hes a bit dodgy tho)

[J3TR33]

hey mate,

my car still has the NA afm, i was never too sure that there was a difference between turbo and non turbo, but i know that series 1 are green label and series 2 are pink,

i think that a tune or a remap should solve some of those issues,

and also make sure you have the correct Gtst ecu for your car, because if you have a series 2 you cant run a series 1 ecu as there is a difference with the ignition module or something, id double check your turbo ecu,

[G0DZLR]

hey mate,

my car still has the NA afm, i was never too sure that there was a difference between turbo and non turbo, but i know that series 1 are green label and series 2 are pink,

i think that a tune or a remap should solve some of those issues,

and also make sure you have the correct Gtst ecu for your car, because if you have a series 2 you cant run a series 1 ecu as there is a difference with the ignition module or something, id double check your turbo ecu,

yeah man i hear you with the S1/2 ECU. i know for a fact that with a S2 ECU, the fuel pump doesnt even prime. are RB25 ECUs able to be remapped? what have you done to yours J3TR33?

[G0DZLR]

bump: wanna sort this issue out before it gets too far down the track...

one thing iv noticed is that when the car is given a boot in the morning (usually atleast 5-10minutes after starting) it doesnt pop/splutter, or in other words ping. at all, when pushed above 4.5k rpm. i only did this a couple of times to test the theory that maybe once its at normal temp (past the stage of using the automatic choke) the ECU leans out the fuel mixture too much once it hits 4.5k.

if i can track down a GTST ECU and confirm that they are indeed different and talk to the ECU differently, hopefully its gonna start me on the road to solving these problems, along with a retune of the ECU (if thats possible, i dont really want to go down the road of aftermarket ECUs considering im running stock gear)

could it be anything else though?

also going to track down a bosch 040 to be on the safe side.

[mad082]

s1 and s2 ecu's are interchangable. they will both work in the same car. the ignition module is not part of the ecu therefore cannot affect how it runs. saying that it makes a difference is basically like saying altezza taillights will make your brakes stop working.

[G0DZLR]

then where is the ignition module in S2s?

[mad082]

s1 has the ignitor at the back of the rocker cover. s2 has it built into the coils. that is why s1 and s2 coils are different and not a direct swap, and look a little bit different

[J3TR33]

hey GODZLR,

i bought an ecu and a remap from toshi of the forums, it was a mail send out, because when i did the turbo conversion i had a series 1.5 ecu in my car and he only accepts direct changeover of ecu's if going the mail out option, i would highly recommend the remap from toshi, i am running 12psi with standard turbo and usual mods on my de+t and the power is awesome, very responsive, the remap and a shift kit was the best bang for buck, it solved most of my problems, but had to buy splitfires as my ones were stuffed, i ended up making 177rwkw on a hub dyno with the standard dump, i think if i change to an aftermarket dump and added some more timing i would be in the 180s mark, which is not bad considering its a conversion and auto, good luck with it but i would highly recommend a remap or aftermarket ecu and tune + splitfires if your coilpacks are dying,

[G0DZLR]

hmm...food for thought. what fuel pump are you running?

organised a mate of mine to do the timing once i get hold of an AFM (hes got a turbo one so we'l see if it makes any diff) hes done mine before when it was still NA and man it made a diff, so hopefully hel work it again but will keep your suggestion in mind. how much did it set you back?