Jump to content
SAU Community

Bottom End Stuffs

Anonimo

By Anonimo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Anonimo Rookie

Anonimo

Posted
Posted

Crank stuff

Ive noticed that std rb30 cranks are cross drilled. I guess like most production cranks. The common knowledge is that at higher rpms oil has a hard time getting to the big end journal when it has to fight centrifugal forces acting against it. As a result its usually the big ends that go first normally due to insufficient oil supply...which commonly happens in the higher rpm range.

Has anyone come up with any mods (crank or otherwise) to overcome this, whether its a critical issue or not? Or perhaps even thought about it? I am aware that it helps by running higher oil pressure to overcome said forces, but high oil pressure also robs horsepower, creates excess friction and heat to both the oil and bearings. Obviously if a billet crank was being made soley for performance applications it would be a straight-line or straight shoot.

Block stuff

I know there are a few block mods to do to most rb30 bottom ends to allow them to handle more power for racing/performance situations.. Like drilling out the main feeds to 7mm and the bearing shells to suit. Some even goto the length of grooving the block(not caps/girdle) so you can run gtr bearings with the multiple oil holes on the top shell.

Has anyone thought about or tried perhaps 360 degree grooves. So both block and cap have oil flow around the bearing? You would have to mod the bearing with oil holes so you could take advantage of this, but i would think it would allow for a constant oil feed to the mains/big end.

Obviously with all these extra passages for oil to flow pressure would drop and you would need to either up the pressure or get a higher flowing pump to provide enough extra oil for these extra areas.

Anybody have any thoughts/ideas/tip or tricks?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269253-bottom-end-stuffs/
Share on other sites
psi Experienced

psi

Posted
Posted

The humble old RB30 is a very durable device. Just look at how many are still driving around on the roads..

What sort of punnishment are you thinking that you are going to apply to your engine?

In standard form, with standard oil pump, they are prone to some oil issues at hi revs only.

But from what I have found, the problem lies totally in the oil pump itself.

The pump does not like and cannot handle prolonged hi revs. We have had cracked pump housings and such, but never had any oil issues anywhere else with the stock RB30 configuration.

Unless your building a monster engine to do insane revs, it seems to as if your trying to fix an issue that does not yet exist for this engine.

in this part of the forum, look up 'RIPS', he has done some very crazy things with the RB30.

If anybody has struck such issues, it would be him! and he would know how to fix them!

Anonimo Rookie

Anonimo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is all in reference to high end pure race motors...not road cars. Drag, Drift and circuit cars only. Not including peoples road cars that see track work either.

Yeh ive seen the RIPS stuff and followed some of his/their work. Very good stuff. I agree with you bubba. He seems like he holds quite a few secrets close to his chest! But with good reason. It would be nice to know if there are some things he does that he hasnt eluded to publicly. Especially when you get up in the high horsepower and big rpm areas!

Everyone i know who races hybrids have to keep revs low and always seem to have bottom end issues. Often seen in engines pushing 600hp+ and see anything over 7500rpm.

spannerx Contributor

spannerx

Posted
Posted

The cranck my be standard but im sure it will be all about the clearences, stud size, clamping torques, oil gallery enlargments including bearing shells, i wonder how much nascar engine spec is applied to a meir nissan 6 ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...