Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i'm considering making a sleeper was thinking the old square 83 bluebird with an rb25det

question is has anyone down this before and how simply is it to put in or are we looking at modifiying the firewall just to get the engine in, am i being an idiot and should stick in a sr20det, i was a r33 man so i do prefer the 25's.

yes i did a search can't find anything on this so any help would be good

even if ya wanna say i'm an idiot and should just get a r32 instead and put the 25 in that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269326-bluebird-rb25det/
Share on other sites

not a stupid idea. awesome idea. i love the old blue's i used to have a series 3 for years.

the issue with blue birds is that the rear ends rip out of them very easily whenever you increase the power, i ripped the diff arms out of my body with a CA20 with a 32/36 webber however i did do lots of burnouts and figure 8's etc with a lock dif.

the motor should fit in with a thermo fan setup i would say, might have to massage the firewall a little but it would be too much of a drama. just watch that rear end, better to make it very strong before you attempt the conversion because it will rip out. S3 rear end 10 bolt diff's are pretty strong and will handle the power for a little. You could also work on a R30 IRS conversion which has been done many times before in those cars as well.

Good luck with it. please keep me up to date with the conversion if it goes ahead!

This thought had crossed my mind as well. I just inherited a series 2 TRX from my sister and was thinking initially of putting in the RB20 that came out of my sisters R32 when I completed the RB25 conversion recently but thought I'd probably prefer the RB25. My intention was to purchase a front cut and use the complete dash (dash surround, instrument cluster, trim pieces etc). This would also allow you to use alot of the wiring from the front cut.

Great idea. If you need someone to wire up the loom to suit I would be only too happy to assist.

There are a number of suspension and brake upgrades you can use which will be sufficient for the increased weight. I am sure you are aware of the bluebird site but just in case www.910bluebird.com. It has alot of the technical articles you will need re brake and suspension upgrades.

I think legally you should be able to do this but I suspect it will the largest capacity turbo motor you can use - you should probably check.

Also note that the Pintara or skyline wagon fuel tank will bolt in place. But must be a wagon. As they have a surge tank and high pressure fuel pump built in, it will save on the external surge tank option if you wish to keep a factory look.

Cheers

In my country there are a few RB25 910's, it's a beautiful combination considering the chassis is fairly light.

Have a look at the below link for a solution to the rear sub-frame issue.

http://forums.trinituner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=176395

Bluebirds are an abomination , been there with a DR30RS in the form of a Bluebird .

Cheap R32 much better thing , all the goodies bolt on plug in without major feats of re engineering .

To do the things mentioned above are not economically feasible when you can buy a car that bolts to the RB25 - and it will handle and stop when its complete .

My advise is don't go there , over to you .

thanks guys been thinkin bout it and i think i'll prob go down the r32 with 25 in it avenue

getting married soon so i'll hold it for now but after i will be lookin for 32 to transfer it to around the 300rwkw mark

if you know anyone with 32 thats has a 25 in it refer them to me think i'll start with someone elses project and finish it off into a monster 32 i think the skyline bug has got me to good to leave it for a different nissan

Group C Bluebird 910's were fragile things , they spat turbo after turbo and often ended up on the side of the track DNFing .

They may have looked wild in their day with the flares and big (for then wheels) but look at what they went up against - carburetted bat mobiles .

As for the Z18ET , horrible Naps Z cross flow cylinder heads with real low ports and tight small radius bends in the ports .

Emissions rubbish and probably would have been better off with the designed for the engine family L series head .

Purely from a mechanical perspective the CA18DET engines are the easiest turbo conversions into Bluebirds because the series 3 had a carburetted CA20 in it so the gearbox bell housings are dimensionally the same . Also you'd use an S3 crossmember because from memory the inlet side engine mounting bracket etc goes bolt . Need a bit of fab on the turbo side I think . Twin cam CA18 much more modern unit than a Z18 .

Nah I couldn't even contemplate another ADM Bluebird , reasonable R32 GTST's can't be that dear to buy .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...