Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to finally get rid of my tein coilovers and go for the more street friendly setup that Sydney kid used to recommend/supply before he disappeared off these forums.

Only problem is i don't know the specifics of what his setup was.

From memory it was:

6/4 (f/b) whiteline springs with bilstein shocks

whiteline sway bars

Can any1 confirm the spring rates and/or provide any part numbers for any of the parts above.

Also would be keen on a workshop/shop that can supply these parts at reasonable prices that anyone can recommend.

Thanks guys

Edited by Taso84

yeah i did some research into this already, and with sloazr33's help, i came up with these part numbers.

The springs he used were whiteline. I think the fronts were 4kg and the rears were ~3kg

Part numbers:

Front: Spring-coil Lowering Kit WSL - Control - 73175

Rear: Spring-coil Lowering Kit WSL - Control - 83139

The shocks are Bilstein B6 Sport

Part Numbers:

Front: #F4-B46-1873-H0

Rear: #F4-B46-1916-H0

SK's shocks had extra circlip grooves (for height adjustment) machined into the shock body. They dont come standard off the shelf with these, but you can request this from your supplier.

Also, i've been told that King Springs in a similar rate, are a better alternative.

Contact Daniel at Elite Racing. He does this exact package with the king springs.

Thanks mate, that really helpfull. I'm assuming that these part numbers were for the 33 gtst, shouldv'e mentioned that in my fist post.

Also what the diff b/w kings and whiteline springs? I was sort of leaning towards getting eibachs instead of whitelines but not sure now

yeah thats for R33. i just assumed lol.

the kings have progressive rates front and rear. I think the whitelines are only progressive rears.

Eibach would also be a good choice, but you need to be careful with matching the spring rate to the damper.

So if you stay with approx the same spring rate it should be ok.

well ideally, you leave the circlips in the standard position. (350mm centre of wheel to guard)

if you drop the height, you shorten the stroke of the shock, and you're stuffing up the whole setup. ive been warned and triple warned about this, and that's why i cant commit to using this setup.

ive tried to convince myself, but 350mm is too high. lol

anyway, i'm not an expert, so ask daniel from elite racing. he will send you a very detailed reply.

edit:

actually, i'd like to see pics of some cars that are using SK's or Elite Racing's bilstein set up to see just how high or low it looks.

caaaarn guys. shows us ur bilsteins :D

Edited by Munkyb0y

is that 325mm all around? and i know these arent bilsteins. you have the greddy type s coilovers in there.

whats the standard ride height, front and rear? anyone know?

i think i read somewhere 375mm, but not sure if thats only front.

i just picked up a set of tein super streets, and wondering how low they can go on the 33.

btw joeyjoejoeyoufknbastardilovethelookofyourcar :P

Edited by Munkyb0y

350mm on the back is perfect for me but i'd prefer around 360mm on the front to save my front bar from scraping on gutters.

So this SK setup comes with 350m (centre wheel to guard) for the front and back?

Also, i know Sydney Kid mentioned that his setup was hard enough for all tracks except maybe Phillips Island, but 4/3 seems abit to soft for track. What do u guys think?

Monkeyboy, i gather that you didnt end up getting SK's pack and went for the tein SS. Was there any reason for this other than the height that you didnt like?

350mm on the back is perfect for me but i'd prefer around 360mm on the front to save my front bar from scraping on gutters.

So this SK setup comes with 350m (centre wheel to guard) for the front and back?

Also, i know Sydney Kid mentioned that his setup was hard enough for all tracks except maybe Phillips Island, but 4/3 seems abit to soft for track. What do u guys think?

Monkeyboy, i gather that you didnt end up getting SK's pack and went for the tein SS. Was there any reason for this other than the height that you didnt like?

i run similar rates in the stag, i think they would be fine in a GTST, aslong as you have swaybars.

It's hard enough for track work if you are using street tyres and big sway bars.

semi slicks like a stiffer spring, around the 6/5 mark, or you can run a higher spring rate again with stock sway bars. There are a few ways to achieve a similar result. Each has it's own merits and short comings.

As has been mentioned already, the main failing with this set up is the stroke of the shock. The soft spring rate doesn't help in that regard so you can end up smashing your bump stops in certain situations where stiff sway bars don't contribute.

whats the standard ride height, front and rear? anyone know? (R33)

i think i read somewhere 375mm, but not sure if thats only front.

i just picked up a set of tein super streets, and wondering how low they can go on the 33.

someone answer Munkyb0y's question.....

yeah...someone answer him

Edited by Munkyb0y
Monkeyboy, i gather that you didnt end up getting SK's pack and went for the tein SS. Was there any reason for this other than the height that you didnt like?

well i got them for a good price vs the bilsteins which seem kind of pricey + the adjustability, and ive heard so many good reports on them.

i run 325mm and even that could be a little lower, visually speaking ofcourse....

DSC00070.jpg

so add an inch to that basically

that looks hot , but maybe drop the back another 10mm and will be fine :)

i agree that 350mm is to high

well i got them for a good price vs the bilsteins which seem kind of pricey + the adjustability, and ive heard so many good reports on them.

Have you put them in yet? What spring rates did you get and how are they?

Also what was the price differential b/w the two setups?

i bought the teins second hand, so its not a viable price comparison in my case.

but the bilsteins with king spring, or whiteline springs will set you back at least $1500 or so, depending what kind of deal you can get. thats about the cheapest i could get them (WITH circlip adjustment).

i think the teins sell for about $2100 delivered from Nengun .

I havent installed them yet. Waiting on some c spanners. They come with a 4kg spring rate front and rear i believe. Ive also heard 5kg front, 4kg rear. But either way, its not a heavy spring.

And from all accounts, they provide a very comfortable ride at soft damper setting, that can be turned up to quite stiff if you require. 16 level damper adjust.

Edited by Munkyb0y
someone answer Munkyb0y's question.....

yeah...someone answer him

I think this was from SK R33 GB thread

"Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear"

For the OP:

Definitely get a front swaybar

BNF24Z whiteline Swaybar 24mm-h/duty Blade adjustable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...