Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

as title says i did a engine change in my r33 & now it wont go, the engine mods are as follows:

hks 3037s

greddy intake

q45 throttle body

z32 afm

660cc injectors

550hp fuel pump

fuel reg

apex pfc

intercooler etc.

Okay, the symptoms are as follows:

I am getting plenty of fuel, spark and battery power but;

  • the engine turns over as it should for approx 6 revs and then turns over very slowly (as if there was too much compression) for one rev, then repeats, also the lights on dash and fc dim when this happens.

when the front 3 coil packs are removed and 1 spark plug is out, it tries to fire but still wont go.

I have checked all earth straps and all connections are tight, the car used to be an auto but is now a 5spd but was already like the before changeing engine but i changed the loom that runs down the side to starter alt and power from auto to manual as the auto 1 in it had broken clips, the timing has been checked and re-checked, and I just can't work it out...... PLEASE HELP ME!?!?!?!

Matt.

Edited by mattsr31

have tried move cas and even putting another 1 in but still the same

what on the loom want make this happen but

what volts should alt put out and why would that course this

the things is all the bolt on's are off the motor that was running in car before its was putted out

How did you check ignition timing? From the loop near the ignition module or at the plug itself? I've seen 20 odd ign diff between the 2 with pfc with cheap timing lights. Its an obvious diff on the cas 1 way or another if its way off centre. Ive also seen the locating tangs on the ex cam break off therefore offsetting the timing depending on where it slots in causing the same symptoms. Couple of ideas

It won't be anything to do with the alternator - during "start", the battery supplies all electric power. Alternator only takes over once the engine is running.

Are the fuel lines on the right way?

Have you done a compression check?

If the engine won't start, you won't be able to check ignition timing.

Get a booster battery onto it, so you know for certain that you have enough grunt.

How did you check ignition timing? From the loop near the ignition module or at the plug itself? I've seen 20 odd ign diff between the 2 with pfc with cheap timing lights. Its an obvious diff on the cas 1 way or another if its way off centre. Ive also seen the locating tangs on the ex cam break off therefore offsetting the timing depending on where it slots in causing the same symptoms. Couple of ideas

it has to be the cas i got it running shit and played for abit and got it a little better but not great so kept playing and now it wont go how do u check if cas is in the right spot as in the marks on the back to they mean anything if so which needs to be lined up

got it running ok now rmp 900 timing 17 but dont think oil pump is working how di i tell this

If ur oil pumps not working your top end will be rattling and pretty soon you'll be up for another engine swap. I'm guessing you're not getting a reading on your oil pressure guage? Check that wiring loom that you run from the alt/starter. Thats around the same area as oil pressure sender so maybe you've knocked it off by accident.

ok for one ur oil pump is driving off the crank so its gotta be spining atleast. did u put ur sump or ur oil pump on this new engine etc just double checking cuz if the pick up isnt bolted up properly its probably just gettin air instead of oil... seen if happen b4. with careless nitwits. and for one if the top end is noisy on start up and its a new engine out of a halfcut etc its gonna be noisy due to the fact of if its an rb25 it will have hydraulic lifters which may not be fully pumped up yet... start it give it time to get all the oil flowing etc. unless u really dont know wat certain sounds would be etc dont start it and get a mechanic to come listen when u start it. just a few ideas

Edited by skylinekid

The sender is beside the oil filter. The only thing there with a plug on it. But yeah it is only a sensor and has nothing to do with the pump other than telling you when its not working. Its a sad story but i don't think you're going to fix this problem without ripping that engine back out again to replace the pump. Obviously you've checked your oil levels.

i had the sump off but im sure i sealed and tightned it up. after i ran it i checked oil right away it was not airrated.. the wired thing is right when the car start for the first time it was not doing it even when i got it running preety good left it for a couple mins and only turned it off to get timing right so its only just strated doing it can timing being out make things like this happen or not really. is there a easy way to check if it has oil pressure..

whats flux capacitor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...