Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the UK and have built a circa 650 crank HP all steel RB26 engine to put in my R33 GTS-t track car. Previously running a 400 `ish flywheel HP RB25 engine in front of a stock R33GTS-t manual box and a Giken twin plate clutch, I now feel that I need to address the tired gearbox, which has synchros that are pretty shot and far from ideal ratios, plus a very slow 4 to 5 change that I feel could be its death knell if I rebuilt it and tried to run it again with much more torque through it.

I was thinking of biting the bullet and using an auto box bellhousing to mount a Glebe (you won't have heard of them in Oz, I am in the UK and they are a small specialist race gearbox manufacturer here) 6 speed sequential dog box behind it, with a fair bit of custom work needed. They are rated to handle far more torque than I'll be creating. The cost would be hefty, the gearbox is about 6000 UK pounds, but should have a good residual value as it's used in a few high end serious race series over here. It's tempting to save some money though, and I thought I'd ask here for actual personal experiences of the PPG 5 speed dog kit in the stock R33 GTS-t casing? The car will be used for track days and a few proper races, is RWD only and will run 10 inch wide rear rims maximum, but on slicks, with a Nissan plate type LSD wound up fairly tight. It'll do zero drag racing, just a few (6?) race starts a year. Will this kit handle things reliably? Would I be better getting the uprated billet mainshaft? I am unsure if this can even be used in the RWD casing, it is a bit unclear on their site as to whether this is a 4WD GTR only item? How much are these kits in Oz if I can get a friend to buy it and ship it over to me here?

Thanks for any info.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271107-ppg-gear-box-problems/
Share on other sites

many drift cars over here run the ppg box's, they do make them specifically for the r33 gts-t i think top of the range would cost u upwards of $AU8-9K (with aussie dollar low at the moment u get the bonus so roughly 4.5Keur) thats with the billet main shaft and billet selectors, thats a direct bolt in for your original 33 case, so a much cheaper alternative and the sets are rated to 1200hp

http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?paren...mp;productid=56

best bet would be to email them!

also you could run a 1.5way mehcanical lsd diff n use a higher ratio to help with your set up?

just make sure if you get it, to be weary of a spline change if you get the upgraded input shaft, and what spline your clutch is. Could be a little pain.

They are great though. The kit will shit it in for what you are doing.

thats ok. os giken make hollinger input shaft spine clutch plates and centre hubs. i did this with my ppg and r3c clutch combo.

the box is good. just make sure you replace the 5th selector fork shoulder bolt with a new one. i bought my ppg secondhand and stripped it down and found it has worked its self loose.

everyone uses these over here as they are less than half the price of a hollinger..

  • 1 month later...

yeah, thats bullshit! im sory to hear about your bad expiance... they built it they should fix it! unless they are hiding under the "race use avoids warenty" bullshit

any court would be retarded not to see they arnt liable! hell im tempted to pull mine down and replace all the rollpins!

a rollpin doesnt fall out unless its to small.. like they dropped it and put in another one that was not exacly the same size. ive had rollpins used many times and they are still heaps tight on the way out.

yeah. id want a pic of the failed rollpin and the shaft/ fork it went into. that will tell the whole story. but at this point trust is requird from them to be honest.

oh thats if it hasnt gone tru the gears.

for it to fall out it would have to be only gripping the shaft. not the fork. and and its being used it would of been hammerd and eventualy lost its tension either way if it wasnt tigh enough they sould of noticed during assembly. like putting a rollpin into an oval burred up alloy fork is not nissans or your fault.

good luck with your negotiations. dave

[Deleted By PranK - For breaching forum rules]

Sorry to hear that Dave. I use the same term for the director of ppg too ;)

I had my share of bad customer service from PPG. I had their products in 2 cars as well.

I wont bore you with my smaller saga but still costed too much.

I wish I have been smarter and spend the extra $$ for more reliable stuff initially.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

My RWD gearbox is done, it's a Swedish made Tractive sequential dog box for my R33 GTS-t I used a modded auto box bellhousing and a concentric clutch release cylinder set up, to work on a Giken triple plate clutch and flywheel. Total weight of bellhousing, adaptor, slave cylinder and gearlever, with wiring and indicator box is under 37 kilos, I can get some more weight off the bellhousing, so I am pleased with that. The whole thing has been a joy to spec and purchase, has come with a proper installation manual, and a full pictorial and textual workshop manual on DVD. Even the gear lever is a work of art. If it works half as well as it looks, it should be great. The PPG kit was just too dear shipped to the UK, although this was very expensive i have a complete transmission, with an internal ratio and drop gear ratio choice, with excellent spares back up.

http://www.chriswilson.tv/tractive/tractive.html

Chris, can we have some more pics of your Tractive gearbox inside the car?

How much did it end up costing you?

I probably won't have time to get it in the car soon, and when i do it'll be behind a scrap block, as the engine is due on the dyno this month. I envisage a custom gearbox X member, and of course, i have to mount the supplied, and beautifully made, sequential gear lever and linkage, and reverse / neutral lock out mechanism, and gear position indicator. When it is all done i'll post up some more photos.

Cost, and it should be less now i have paid for the drawings for the adaptor, was around 7700 UK pounds with carriage and taxes to the UK. They have a good resale value. DO NOT forget these are RWD boxes, and they haven't done anything for the 4 WD cars as yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...