Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

unfortunately my car has been written off and my insurance is stuffing me around so i might get nothing

i hit someone up the ass at a low speed and set the airbag off and as she had a towbar it show is the damage

do u think it is repairable from these pics

the cooler and radiator are f**ked

post-51056-1242908687_thumb.jpg

Who are you insured with ? As far as i know there is always the option of purchasing the car back when it is written off

And yes i think that isnt a very difficult repair for a decent panel beater. At least with front enders the chassis rarely bends leaving you crabbing up the street.

What needs to be replaced, Front bar,Bonnet ,headlight, radiator and rad support etc

they fix worse than this often

Edited by GTR-32U

im with just car

i paid for full comp ($1306) and there saying i have 3rd party

it is a load of shit so im looking at the worst case senario i dont want to sell it off in parts and ill get sweet FA for it and i love her to bits so im loking at repairing it

What does it say on the Just Car Policy Statement? It should be itemised!

A decent solicitor could turn the screws on J/C as a 'sabre-rattling' exercise and charge a minimal fee!

It's been done before!

The Daily Telegraph photographer that took shots of my car last month for Cars Guide was being screwed by NRMA after his VW Transporter caught fire. When he brought a solicitor into the fray, they paid up. That's Nobody Robs More Australians for you.

im with just car

i paid for full comp ($1306) and there saying i have 3rd party

it is a load of shit so im looking at the worst case senario i dont want to sell it off in parts and ill get sweet FA for it and i love her to bits so im loking at repairing it

Dont you have the paperworks stating what policy you puchased with all the details of the policy and your car and so forth or you threw it away?

im with just car

i paid for full comp ($1306) and there saying i have 3rd party

it is a load of shit so im looking at the worst case senario i dont want to sell it off in parts and ill get sweet FA for it and i love her to bits so im loking at repairing it

Go to Abbotsford Collision centre in well, Abbotsford, they can fix anything

Try and turn a negative into a positive.

In other words now you can fit the front Bar you have always wanted, the Bonnet you prefer, Big alloy radiator if you ever plan on track work, better intercooler set up etc

if you can try and sneak in a photo from above looking into engine bay preferably with as much focus on areas like rad support etc....There are probably a few panel guys on here who may offer you some cost estimate etc work involved etc

Edited by GTR-32U
Try and turn a negative into a positive.

In other words now you can fit the front Bar you have always wanted, the Bonnet you prefer, Big alloy radiator if you ever plan on track work, better intercooler set up etc

+1

wen i rebuilt my engine, had a good think and did a lot of things at once

thanks guys

i got all the paperwork so it should be sweet and i get cash back but i want to fix it up as i only had it for 6 months and its a awesome setup

i know abbosford collision and i might give them a bell

or if anyone here can think of the body work to get done cheap but good the mechanical side i can sort out

Yep, modifying a broken part is the way to go. That way you're getting something in return for your money instead of just returning the car to the state it was before. When I smashed up my first car pretty badly (essentially a write off), I resprayed it in Yellow Devil as opposed to the red that the car was previously. That way, in my mind it wasn't a repair...it was a modification :D

Edited by Birds
it is the plan. i want to fix it all up new cooler and front bar and respary it all pearl black and hopefully asap

then ill be back on the roads and happy as ever

Thats it, do t look at it so negatively, its just an opportunity to make your ride better..i had a friend who crashed his car,, insurance said complete write off, much worse than yours, took it to abbotsford and they fixed it up, car goes perfectly.

good luck man

first thing is to strip it. By the looks of it she needs a pull on the skirting, once you have got her squared up with the tremel, unstich your rad support , dummy fit the new one square it up check all gaps fit lights grill bar etc then your away laughing, weld her up with a spot welder if you can get one. Shame your not in bris would have done it for ya

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...