Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Paul,

Doesn't the stock v35 pull 170kw at the wheels?

What did you have at the wheels before the spacer and jwt?

I want a performance upgrade as well...but there doesnt seem to be anycost effective options for the v35!

I got 161.4 at the wheels and the guy said i should be happy. I told him about the mods im getting and he said i should gain 15kw at the wheels which should be noticeable and im just going to leave it at that.

I think i read somewhere that people have gotten results of 140 at the wheels . i would too like to know whats standard.

Unfortunately Blistc is right on the money there...

Whoever told you got Nismo stuff don't know the difference between a hazelnut and an almond nut.

You have factory nissan front spoiler and factory nissan rear spoiler. I'm actually ordering that exact front spoiler from japanparts, but i'm not getting the rear spoiler. not a fan of wings, really.

here is factory NISSAN rear spoiler:

post-328-1243116568_thumb.jpg

and here is NISMO rear spoiler - elevated with gaps between the boot and the wing... you can tell the difference straight away....

post-328-1243116680_thumb.jpg

factory Nissan front lip = what you have

post-328-1243117463_thumb.jpg

NISMO front lip - the protruding lip section is smaller and 'sharper' towards the bottom of the lips, and there was no curving up on the rounded corner of both sides that wraps around the bumper...

post-328-1243117553_thumb.jpg

Yes thats exactly what i have . How much are you paying for the front and did u get a price on the rear spoiler ?

below $1k incl shipping

shipping cost as much as the part itself. it sucks but hey nothing we can do about it, we're not in the era where 1AUD=100JPY anymore...

so anything done now is just a complete blow out of budget

i didn't get price for the rear, but the price is there on their website, not including shipping, work out to be less than AU$900.

put in shipping, then think $1.5k for a genuine Nissan spoiler, while the Nismo spoiler will easily be $2k delivered or more.

makes you think now that even factory parts are worth a huge fortune...

below $1k incl shipping

shipping cost as much as the part itself. it sucks but hey nothing we can do about it, we're not in the era where 1AUD=100JPY anymore...

so anything done now is just a complete blow out of budget

i didn't get price for the rear, but the price is there on their website, not including shipping, work out to be less than AU$900.

put in shipping, then think $1.5k for a genuine Nissan spoiler, while the Nismo spoiler will easily be $2k delivered or more.

makes you think now that even factory parts are worth a huge fortune...

that is expensive i was thinking about getting some sides

at least still $300 cheaper than what riverside is gonna charge me for shipping.

no Nissan sideskirts, only a set of 4 mud guards, which already cost $500 from japanparts. nuts price, I know...

but Nismo have sideskirts for V35, but recently it's not on japanparts anymore, most likely has been obsolete/no longer produced. the only one left is the nismo rear wing.

so if that's gonna be obsolete soon, $2k could be quite "worth" it for a 'collector's item' LOL... depends how you see it...

I had a look at both winged & wingless V35 coupe, I actually prefer the wingless look, so that's why I'm not getting the rear spoiler.

Paul,

Doesn't the stock v35 pull 170kw at the wheels?

What did you have at the wheels before the spacer and jwt?

I want a performance upgrade as well...but there doesnt seem to be anycost effective options for the v35!

Yeah i did a before test. 163kw at the wheels and thats STOCK

Yeah i did a before test. 163kw at the wheels and thats STOCK

So rougly your paying $100 per kw do you think it's worth it ? Driving everyday can you notice the difference before and after? Like after you put on the spacer and pop charger and took it for a drive did u say wow or did yousay it feels the same

looks like unfortunately doing anything without the introduction of forced induction is never worth it...

or the standard of "worth it" should be totally adjusted by a factor 3x when comparing to the world of turbocharged engines...

the big game with non forced-induction engine would probably displacement... big bore mods to 3.8ltr is probably what's worth it if you don't want to go down the s/c or turbo path

looks like unfortunately doing anything without the introduction of forced induction is never worth it...

or the standard of "worth it" should be totally adjusted by a factor 3x when comparing to the world of turbocharged engines...

the big game with non forced-induction engine would probably displacement... big bore mods to 3.8ltr is probably what's worth it if you don't want to go down the s/c or turbo path

I'm willing to pay $1000 for an extra 15kw!

as long as those mods actually give me that im all in.

FI is just way too expensive....

I'm willing to pay $1000 for an extra 15kw!

as long as those mods actually give me that im all in.

FI is just way too expensive....

Yes il pay 1g for 15rwkw how much does it cost for the boring and is there anything bad side effects , I don't want to super charge the engine because it puts stain on everything and the amount of cash you spend u never get back . I.e if u spend $5,000 on s/c u can't increase your re sale by $5 but if u add a few minor mods spending $1,000 I'm sure u can put another $500 on top of value

Personaly iv been keen to hook up a wet 75 shot of NOS to my car. From what I see considoring I have no plan on taking my car to the track apart from the odd track day for fun "which wont be till next year when I move back to the Gold Coast and can drive to QR" its the best bang for buck option. I would not mind a skunk spacer and a z tube though for a little extra kick. I managed a 170rwkw run with nothing more than a nismo cat back on a hot Townsville summer day.

i have put all engine mods on hold besides the ones i will be doing for the FI setup

looking at so many different kits right now.

the thing is, there is no point in buying pullys and plenums, intakes and headers etc. and spending an easy $5000 for all that stuff to gain what - an extra 40kw when you could be a bit more patient and invest it in a TT or Supercharge r even Single T setup

-mark

i have put all engine mods on hold besides the ones i will be doing for the FI setup

looking at so many different kits right now.

the thing is, there is no point in buying pullys and plenums, intakes and headers etc. and spending an easy $5000 for all that stuff to gain what - an extra 40kw when you could be a bit more patient and invest it in a TT or Supercharge r even Single T setup

-mark

I just decided to give up on TT and go ahead with supercharge.. Reason is, engineering the TT is too much of a headache.. and it seems like supercharging it is much simple way to gain extra power and much cheaper..

So rougly your paying $100 per kw do you think it's worth it ? Driving everyday can you notice the difference before and after? Like after you put on the spacer and pop charger and took it for a drive did u say wow or did yousay it feels the same

Because i didn't reset my ECU after i put the mods on it took about a hours worth of driving before the computer had optimized it's self with the mods. When i put the JWT filter on the sound change was instant.

"Is it worth it?"

Is any of this stuff we do to ours cars worth it?

I don't think so

But i like to do it and that's what it's all about :)

anyone considering a Test Pipe? :D i heard it'll improve alot of power. Exhaust also the problem being very restrictive too.

I have the Md spacers 5/16, CF intake Tube, K&N drop in filter and Amuse Ti Exhaust. The gain on my butt dyno feel is quiet good. At least i can keep up with E46 M3 Cabrio.

My next mod going to be Grounding kit from USA and going to see if the auto shifting are quicker and smoother or not.

anyone considering a Test Pipe? ;) i heard it'll improve alot of power. Exhaust also the problem being very restrictive too.

It will free up a bit of power, but is it worth the "bend over and f**k me" fine if you get EPA'ed?

If you get test pipes, get resonated ones at least. The resonator will make it look like a cat at least, and remove the rasp.

Edited by scathing
I just decided to give up on TT and go ahead with supercharge.. Reason is, engineering the TT is too much of a headache.. and it seems like supercharging it is much simple way to gain extra power and much cheaper..

i agree, and hence why i will be having a group buy soon

i have managed to secure an excellent price on vortech supercharger kits from the USA i will let you guys know more info soon

these kits the guys in america are punching out 298rwkw on 91ron fuel..........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...