Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Paul,

Doesn't the stock v35 pull 170kw at the wheels?

What did you have at the wheels before the spacer and jwt?

I want a performance upgrade as well...but there doesnt seem to be anycost effective options for the v35!

I got 161.4 at the wheels and the guy said i should be happy. I told him about the mods im getting and he said i should gain 15kw at the wheels which should be noticeable and im just going to leave it at that.

I think i read somewhere that people have gotten results of 140 at the wheels . i would too like to know whats standard.

Unfortunately Blistc is right on the money there...

Whoever told you got Nismo stuff don't know the difference between a hazelnut and an almond nut.

You have factory nissan front spoiler and factory nissan rear spoiler. I'm actually ordering that exact front spoiler from japanparts, but i'm not getting the rear spoiler. not a fan of wings, really.

here is factory NISSAN rear spoiler:

post-328-1243116568_thumb.jpg

and here is NISMO rear spoiler - elevated with gaps between the boot and the wing... you can tell the difference straight away....

post-328-1243116680_thumb.jpg

factory Nissan front lip = what you have

post-328-1243117463_thumb.jpg

NISMO front lip - the protruding lip section is smaller and 'sharper' towards the bottom of the lips, and there was no curving up on the rounded corner of both sides that wraps around the bumper...

post-328-1243117553_thumb.jpg

Yes thats exactly what i have . How much are you paying for the front and did u get a price on the rear spoiler ?

below $1k incl shipping

shipping cost as much as the part itself. it sucks but hey nothing we can do about it, we're not in the era where 1AUD=100JPY anymore...

so anything done now is just a complete blow out of budget

i didn't get price for the rear, but the price is there on their website, not including shipping, work out to be less than AU$900.

put in shipping, then think $1.5k for a genuine Nissan spoiler, while the Nismo spoiler will easily be $2k delivered or more.

makes you think now that even factory parts are worth a huge fortune...

below $1k incl shipping

shipping cost as much as the part itself. it sucks but hey nothing we can do about it, we're not in the era where 1AUD=100JPY anymore...

so anything done now is just a complete blow out of budget

i didn't get price for the rear, but the price is there on their website, not including shipping, work out to be less than AU$900.

put in shipping, then think $1.5k for a genuine Nissan spoiler, while the Nismo spoiler will easily be $2k delivered or more.

makes you think now that even factory parts are worth a huge fortune...

that is expensive i was thinking about getting some sides

at least still $300 cheaper than what riverside is gonna charge me for shipping.

no Nissan sideskirts, only a set of 4 mud guards, which already cost $500 from japanparts. nuts price, I know...

but Nismo have sideskirts for V35, but recently it's not on japanparts anymore, most likely has been obsolete/no longer produced. the only one left is the nismo rear wing.

so if that's gonna be obsolete soon, $2k could be quite "worth" it for a 'collector's item' LOL... depends how you see it...

I had a look at both winged & wingless V35 coupe, I actually prefer the wingless look, so that's why I'm not getting the rear spoiler.

Paul,

Doesn't the stock v35 pull 170kw at the wheels?

What did you have at the wheels before the spacer and jwt?

I want a performance upgrade as well...but there doesnt seem to be anycost effective options for the v35!

Yeah i did a before test. 163kw at the wheels and thats STOCK

Yeah i did a before test. 163kw at the wheels and thats STOCK

So rougly your paying $100 per kw do you think it's worth it ? Driving everyday can you notice the difference before and after? Like after you put on the spacer and pop charger and took it for a drive did u say wow or did yousay it feels the same

looks like unfortunately doing anything without the introduction of forced induction is never worth it...

or the standard of "worth it" should be totally adjusted by a factor 3x when comparing to the world of turbocharged engines...

the big game with non forced-induction engine would probably displacement... big bore mods to 3.8ltr is probably what's worth it if you don't want to go down the s/c or turbo path

looks like unfortunately doing anything without the introduction of forced induction is never worth it...

or the standard of "worth it" should be totally adjusted by a factor 3x when comparing to the world of turbocharged engines...

the big game with non forced-induction engine would probably displacement... big bore mods to 3.8ltr is probably what's worth it if you don't want to go down the s/c or turbo path

I'm willing to pay $1000 for an extra 15kw!

as long as those mods actually give me that im all in.

FI is just way too expensive....

I'm willing to pay $1000 for an extra 15kw!

as long as those mods actually give me that im all in.

FI is just way too expensive....

Yes il pay 1g for 15rwkw how much does it cost for the boring and is there anything bad side effects , I don't want to super charge the engine because it puts stain on everything and the amount of cash you spend u never get back . I.e if u spend $5,000 on s/c u can't increase your re sale by $5 but if u add a few minor mods spending $1,000 I'm sure u can put another $500 on top of value

Personaly iv been keen to hook up a wet 75 shot of NOS to my car. From what I see considoring I have no plan on taking my car to the track apart from the odd track day for fun "which wont be till next year when I move back to the Gold Coast and can drive to QR" its the best bang for buck option. I would not mind a skunk spacer and a z tube though for a little extra kick. I managed a 170rwkw run with nothing more than a nismo cat back on a hot Townsville summer day.

i have put all engine mods on hold besides the ones i will be doing for the FI setup

looking at so many different kits right now.

the thing is, there is no point in buying pullys and plenums, intakes and headers etc. and spending an easy $5000 for all that stuff to gain what - an extra 40kw when you could be a bit more patient and invest it in a TT or Supercharge r even Single T setup

-mark

i have put all engine mods on hold besides the ones i will be doing for the FI setup

looking at so many different kits right now.

the thing is, there is no point in buying pullys and plenums, intakes and headers etc. and spending an easy $5000 for all that stuff to gain what - an extra 40kw when you could be a bit more patient and invest it in a TT or Supercharge r even Single T setup

-mark

I just decided to give up on TT and go ahead with supercharge.. Reason is, engineering the TT is too much of a headache.. and it seems like supercharging it is much simple way to gain extra power and much cheaper..

So rougly your paying $100 per kw do you think it's worth it ? Driving everyday can you notice the difference before and after? Like after you put on the spacer and pop charger and took it for a drive did u say wow or did yousay it feels the same

Because i didn't reset my ECU after i put the mods on it took about a hours worth of driving before the computer had optimized it's self with the mods. When i put the JWT filter on the sound change was instant.

"Is it worth it?"

Is any of this stuff we do to ours cars worth it?

I don't think so

But i like to do it and that's what it's all about :)

anyone considering a Test Pipe? :D i heard it'll improve alot of power. Exhaust also the problem being very restrictive too.

I have the Md spacers 5/16, CF intake Tube, K&N drop in filter and Amuse Ti Exhaust. The gain on my butt dyno feel is quiet good. At least i can keep up with E46 M3 Cabrio.

My next mod going to be Grounding kit from USA and going to see if the auto shifting are quicker and smoother or not.

anyone considering a Test Pipe? ;) i heard it'll improve alot of power. Exhaust also the problem being very restrictive too.

It will free up a bit of power, but is it worth the "bend over and f**k me" fine if you get EPA'ed?

If you get test pipes, get resonated ones at least. The resonator will make it look like a cat at least, and remove the rasp.

Edited by scathing
I just decided to give up on TT and go ahead with supercharge.. Reason is, engineering the TT is too much of a headache.. and it seems like supercharging it is much simple way to gain extra power and much cheaper..

i agree, and hence why i will be having a group buy soon

i have managed to secure an excellent price on vortech supercharger kits from the USA i will let you guys know more info soon

these kits the guys in america are punching out 298rwkw on 91ron fuel..........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...