Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the bloke that done the conversion on my rb25det gu patrol used the sump of the old 2.8td donk that came out of it. he said he put 7.5l of oil in it cuz thats what the 2.8td donk used to take to be full and he recons this should be fine, im not so sure cuz it does even regester on the rb25s dipstick. i dont want to over fill it and have the crank sitting in oil but i also dont want it to be that low. also the lifters are very noisy at start up and takes about 4-5min of idling for the lifters to stop making so much noise

so my question is.

Without worrying what sump is on it should i still fill it untill the full mark of the dipstick?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/
Share on other sites

Probably not gonna find much help around here mate in regards to a Patrol, have you tried a 4wd forum?

I had a look in the GQ workshop manuals, but there isn't actually anything in there about oil capacity, I'm *guessing* that it would be the same since you've retained the sump, bearing in mind that you'll need to use a decent quality synthetic oil now.

Just outta interest, why not start with an RB30S motor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/#findComment-4622660
Share on other sites

tried the 2.8 dipstick?

or get a spare sump of each, fill with water, measure, and work out the difference.

Since running a quality oil( Fuchs 10w30) i have had less noises and the motor is a lot cleaner internally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/#findComment-4623036
Share on other sites

wat pickup are u using? if using the 25 one still it may not be long enough? i'd fill it to the bottom level of the cross hatching the 25 dipstick and see if the noise stops. if the noise improves then fill it to the full mark as the pick up and dipstick are designed to work together regardless of how deep the sump is full will be the same level compared to the crank. it will just take more oil to get there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/#findComment-4624519
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

bringing this back from the dead!!!.... does anybody know more info these days?? im goin through the same thing atm... 2.8 takes 6.5litres.. so i put about 6.7 in and still no registering on the dipstick... wat have other ppl done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/#findComment-7548856
Share on other sites

not sure if its that simlpe... as its a rear sump now i suspect the dipstick it goin in too far and bending sideways a little along the edge of the sump.. it feels like it jams up a little about an inch from being all the way in... plenty of ppl have done this swap now so someone must have done something....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/#findComment-7548966
Share on other sites

Keep putting oil in until it registers the correct amount on the dipstick. Simple.

If the dipstick and sump are both out of the 2.8d then fill it as per quote above.

The sump is designed to hold 'x' amount of oil and the dipstick will show the correct level

You may have issues with high g forces during cornering with the volume of oil seen as patrols arent designed to corner fast, thats why the best option is to go with th 25 sump or baffle it really well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/#findComment-7549129
Share on other sites

rd28 dipstick pokes in towards the rear of the engine because that's where it holds the oil. It's like a reverse extended rb sump.

The rb25 dipstick is just poking into the shallow area of the sump where the oil level sits below when bolted to an rd28

Edited by Dobz
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271519-rb25-sump-oil/#findComment-7549224
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...