Jump to content
SAU Community

Strange Noise M35 Arx

[[d a n n y]]
 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted
Yes thats the rev range......the reason it works sometimes and not others is because it is binding up. It feels like you have 2 boost settings does it not?

Its the rear bearing failing, they get hot and fill with burnt oily crap then flog out. Ive got a photo of the bearing, I caught mine early.

post-63525-1252680737_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

dozzer Rookie

dozzer

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yes thats the rev range......the reason it works sometimes and not others is because it is binding up. It feels like you have 2 boost settings does it not?

Sorry mate been busy....

Yeah sometimes! On ocassion it seems to hold back for a second then climb again but others its sweet. It has me stumped. Will have to have a look at the rear bearing as well.

When you initally checked the turbo when it first started happening, was there any signs of shaft play?

Edited by dozzer
dozzer Rookie

dozzer

Posted
Posted
Its the rear bearing failing, they get hot and fill with burnt oily crap then flog out. Ive got a photo of the bearing, I caught mine early.

which rear bearing is it? a driveshaft bearing or a tailshaft bearing?

how did you go abouts checking it to make sure thats what it was?

cheers mate.

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted
which rear bearing is it? a driveshaft bearing or a tailshaft bearing?

how did you go abouts checking it to make sure thats what it was?

cheers mate.

that photo is of the Turbo rear bearing, not the Drive shaft or tail shaft.

dozzer Rookie

dozzer

Posted
Posted
It's a big job to check it on the car......just drive it till it fails.....car is still drivable without boost.

Yeah but no fun without boost!!!

Thanks for your help guys. I have some warranty left on my car so ill have to do a bit of research and see if i can make a claim.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted
Yeah but no fun without boost!!!

Thanks for your help guys. I have some warranty left on my car so ill have to do a bit of research and see if i can make a claim.

I looked into it but they only covered $750 for turbo and they wanted $2,500 labor just to remove and refit. Bugger that.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted (edited)

funny that

i still got the noise after turbo replacement..

Danny, there are three distinct noises my turbo made.

First is the suction noise, gentle and builds up to boost.

Second is the bearing whine, Mine doesnt have this at all now due to not having ball bearings. This will get louder as the bearings start to wear, and other than running good oil and changing it often theres not much you can do as eventually all ball bearings fail. They dont like heat or high revs....

Third noise I heard was a gentle metalic scraping noise. This was the thrust bearing wearing down to the point where the compressor wheel was rubbing on the housing. Again, not much you can do, they are a wearing part and the more boost you run, the quicker the thrust bearing will wear.

Which noise are you hearing?

And Cam, you stay out of it, ok? They arent the only ones.... :D

Edited by scotty nm35
  • 1 month later...
wailiam Enthusiast

wailiam

Posted
Posted

funny that

i still got the noise after turbo replacement..

Hey Danny

I just picked up my M35 today and got it registered!

Anyway I noticed the exact same noise.

only seems to happen at max torque around 3-3500 k and not on full throttle.

could it be the attessa kicking in? Does the attessa make a noise when engaging front diff?

My other theory is it's slipping in between gearchanges but havent driven it enough to really tell.

wailiam Enthusiast

wailiam

Posted
Posted

third noise

but it's gone now

hey william yeah thats wat i sounds like

but it's nothing to do with the sussy or anything

as scotty said bearing noise on the turbo

then again i dont have that noise no more

Bugger

Just went for another spirited drive... man starting to love it!

I think the noise is more like a uuurrrggghh and seems to do it between gear changes

under load. Could my auto tranny have a problem?

using the triptronic it takes ages to change gears! I'll change up at 4k and it will rev to 7k before changing!

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

nah his car is stock, wil when i drove it it sounded fine to me. i didnt push it THAT hard, but it was enough to get the normal sounds out of it.

my car has a weird exhaust leak under the driver. its possible yours has a similar problem.

also, check the oil and change it if it looks dirty. you dont have THAT many ks on the car so all should be well

wailiam Enthusiast

wailiam

Posted
Posted
I thought i was having problems the other day. i had a grinding noise kinda.. very faint..

it however ended up bieng the A/c.. thank god! i am not ready for the highflow or my exhaust..

Hmm

maybe i'll try it without the a/c on and see if it still makes the noise...

Any recommendations for auto trans service? If i take it to nissan what model should I say the car is similar to?

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hmm

maybe i'll try it without the a/c on and see if it still makes the noise...

Any recommendations for auto trans service? If i take it to nissan what model should I say the car is similar to?

You shouldn't have to. It clearly states to use Matic J on the dipstick, so they should be ok.

Edited by iamhe77
wailiam Enthusiast

wailiam

Posted
Posted

just to close this off.

Took my car to Nissan Osborne Park today. The noise was happening around the 4k rpm in almost any gear at half throttle.

The mechanic found the turbo intake pipe or some pipe near the turbo was rubbing hard up against the chassis, i'm not sure exact details but they've re-adjusted it.

Auto service (the fluid in there was looking a bit dark)- $330

Throttle body clean (recommended by them) - $135

Diagnose and fix that problem - $70

Replace some cracked belts - ~$120

$700 odd later and hopefully she'll be like new. Will report after I have a drive.

Funny watching one mechanic come and look at the car and he's like 'what's that? Is that an import???'

Altogether they were pretty inquisitive about the car, finding out whether it would hook up to their diagnostics, finding out what belts fit etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...