Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im doing an RB25 Conversion on my HR31 Gts-x

so ive wired everything up, I went to check spark, and there was nothing there.

I thought this was wierd so i checked power to coils, they all had power

Then i took the CAS out and turned it by hand, IT SPARKED!

So it was sparking when i turned the CAS but not when i cranked the engine.

So then i thought the exhaust dowel must have snapped off, so i looked at that, and no it hadnt snapped off, i even compared the size of the dowel to the redtop RB20 i have sitting here, and they were both exactly the same!

So now im confused as to why it sparks by hand, but wont spark when the engine is cranked.

One more thing, when i got the wiring loom it was missing the CAS plug, so i used one out of an RB20 by matching the wire colours using wiring diagrams, so i thought i might have got something wrong? but still doesnt explain why it would spark by hand and not when cranked

any help would be much appreciated guys as at this point i have run out of ideas

cheers guys

Chester

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271838-rb25-conversion-no-spark/
Share on other sites

hey guys im doing an RB25 Conversion on my HR31 Gts-x

so ive wired everything up, I went to check spark, and there was nothing there.

I thought this was wierd so i checked power to coils, they all had power

Then i took the CAS out and turned it by hand, IT SPARKED!

So it was sparking when i turned the CAS but not when i cranked the engine.

So then i thought the exhaust dowel must have snapped off, so i looked at that, and no it hadnt snapped off, i even compared the size of the dowel to the redtop RB20 i have sitting here, and they were both exactly the same!

So now im confused as to why it sparks by hand, but wont spark when the engine is cranked.

One more thing, when i got the wiring loom it was missing the CAS plug, so i used one out of an RB20 by matching the wire colours using wiring diagrams, so i thought i might have got something wrong? but still doesnt explain why it would spark by hand and not when cranked

any help would be much appreciated guys as at this point i have run out of ideas

cheers guys

Chester

snapped cam belt.

check to see if you have +12 to coils and crank angle sensor when you crank you could be looseing ignition +12 when you crank engine over.cheers darren.

Edited by blown-vp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
×
×
  • Create New...