Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The GTR can nevah lose!!!

Admittedley not stock with est 350kw at the wheelz..

Motor annual speed run test at Avalalon not even 623 lazy grande of lambo might could beat it

Results..

Nissan GTR R33 306.9 kmh (8500rpm plus in fifth)

Lambo Murcielago 303.8

VT Commodore V8 Supercar (Garth tanders Bathurst car from 2000) 295.1

Jagaur XJS 6.0 Twin Turbo 283.1 (limited by gearing)

Roaring Forties GT40 282.1

CSV Mondo GT 280.5

Holden Monaro CV8 targa (brockies) 271.4

Maserati Coupe Cambiocorsa 264.9

HSV GTS Sean 260.0

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27221-the-gtr-can-nevah-lose/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ice180

The GTR can nevah lose!!!  

Admittedley not stock with est 350kw at the wheelz..

Motor annual speed run test at Avalalon not even 623 lazy grande of lambo might could beat it

Results..

Nissan GTR R33 306.9 kmh (8500rpm plus in fifth)

Ahem!

2004 Porsche 911 GT2 - 355 kW (stock!)

Top Speed: 319 km/h

:rofl:

Thr GTR could have gone higher probably could some of the others but the straight at avalon is 3km long and you hit it at about 65km/h so most of the cars where Running our of road. Tony was adimant that he could have done 310. Would of been great if Ben's car was there but oh well. This stuff was supposed to be in "Motor" magazine but as yet no show.

Mick.

We did Goulburn airport the other day, and a big GTR managed 220.

Now if over the quarter it would do, say, 180, over double the distance it only put on 40km/h

Bottom line is, at those speeds the aero drag is *huge* and you need equally huge power to overcome it....

Hi guys!

Theres a video clip out on the net somewhere that shows a R34 (I think its a r34) gtr hitting 328km/h in some famous tunnel in the UK. Dunno how modified this R34 was but the footage is pretty fantastic, the camera guy loses visibility of the gtr as he flies past him, him traveling so fast and all. Pretty good to watch.

Originally posted by Chief

Hi guys!

Theres a video clip out on the net somewhere that shows a R34 (I think its a r34) gtr hitting 328km/h in some famous tunnel in the UK. Dunno how modified this R34 was but the footage is pretty fantastic, the camera guy loses visibility of the gtr as he flies past him, him traveling so fast and all. Pretty good to watch.

that'd be Nagata San.. CEO of Top Secret in japan..

the videos are at exvitermini

Is in this month's Motor Mag - was out on Monday.

My brother (HSV PR guy) was there and said that many of the cars 'could' have gone faster if given a longer stretch of road/runway. As Duncan says - at those speeds aerodynamic drag plays a big part. A 10km stretch of salt-flat would be much more interesting :)

Top Secret 328km/h Wangan Tunnel (Shutoko expressway, Tokyo) run is on 'Beasts from the East' DVD - car (R33 GTR) has estimated 1200HP. Nagata san took a 1000kw Supra to England and did similar speed on the M1 Motorway.

My brother also mentioned that the techs forgot to remove the limiter on his car, hence the top speed of only 260. Sure ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...