Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I heard it's pointless, cos as soon as you put local fuels in it, you loose pwr and end up only similar pwr with local delivered ones... and you only have 180 speedo. But I heard the leather steering wheel looks nicer in jap version than the local plastic ones.

Why not start with local S15 and mod it up? at least you got warranty if u buy it new and local delivered ones usually holds its value better...

there is a slight difference. power being the 1st. the silvia badging,.... i think maybe injectors or something, wait for dark to dig it up. oh the reflectors in the rear bumber arent in the jdm and the years 1999 jdm later aus.

id personally buy a jdm spec r over an australian one.

sorry.. i cant find the site..

but its a webpage of someone on this forum, with a fully JDM converted white S15..

i remember, it had a popup dash monitor, and headlight washers, rear wiper.. stuff like that..

different tubro

electric fold mirror

crimate control

A pillar boost gauge

badge

rear wipers

leather steering wheel

180 speedo

silightly different head light

surprise, u pay less insurance for Jap import S15 than aus. S15 due to the accident rate

and u can have a Jap S15 for high 20' instead of low-mid 30" aus. spec

To summarise:

JDM > AUS

climate control

xenon hid headlights

tv screen/sat-nav/md

rear windscreen wiper

factory boost gauge/a-pillar

180km instrument cluster

fog lights

ignition keylight illumination

heaps more, see

http://www.bengoodger.com/cars/silvia/jsit...s/options.shtml

*tv screen/sat-nav/md

are option but not standard

i read a few aus. magazine when the car release, mention about smaller tubro in aus. spec due to esmissionyep only jap spec

s15s have BB turbos,

ozzy delivered s15s are non BB, but roll bearing turbos..

i GUESS there is no way a factory Jap S15 is tune for 100 octane, so the jap spec should preformace 184kw in aus. fuel

Originally posted by HKSgtst

i'd get a Jap spec one. As they are cheaper, more powerful and rarer.

But nowadays S15s are everywhere. oh yeah, its hard to find a good condition jap spec S15.

you'll make the savings buying a jap spec model, but you'll end up paying it all back or even more to insurance...

oz delivered s15 are heaps easier and cheaper to insure

Originally posted by CONAN

you'll make the savings buying a jap spec model, but you'll end up paying it all back or even more to insurance...

oz delivered s15 are heaps easier and cheaper to insure

not really

someone found out that Jap spec is CHEAPER to insure due to the accident rate of Aus. spec is so high.

Originally posted by CONAN

you'll make the savings buying a jap spec model, but you'll end up paying it all back or even more to insurance...

oz delivered s15 are heaps easier and cheaper to insure

It is cheaper to insure a Aus spec S15, Im sure of it having been on the silvia forums for awhile.:uh-huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...