Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last 2 tanks ive been getting a worst of 414 @ 52 litres and then 435 @ 52 litres. The 414 had heaps of thrashings and even a few with the 435. Half tank on these i was getting between 200-220. Now im driving like a granny, and the current tank i have 240 and its still just above half.

if you get 200kms from either the top half or bottom half of the tank your doing very well.

melbourne seems to have better petrol than sydney - i always read skyline melbourn'ites averaging over 400km a tank which is around 12l/100km's, which is doable i guess...im more 12.5-13l/100km. around 400km is my average.

i have powerfc, 13psi boost, full exhaust & hiflow cat, front mount, hiflow filter element. the powerfc makes a large difference, before the PFC i was averaging about 350km per tank.

i get just around 400 and i thought that was shitty... 1st half usually goes quicker as I fang it, then realise after 1 day i have already used a half tank and take it easy.

worst I ever got was 210km out of a tank.... got 185km out 60L on an STi once :( redline the whole time almost.

I almost always get 400km and drive till the fuel light is on. She's an auto and i'm not afraid of the GO pedal, best has been 520 on a country drive with some WOT. Worst was 270, all with a cat back and no noticeable difference with modded ECU more boost and pod filter.

  • 2 months later...

I smashed my previous fuel consumption record (552km from 63L = 11.4L per/100km). It now stands at 622km from 60L = 9.6L per/100km, I could have pushed it to up around 640km but I didn't want to risk it because I was about to turn onto the M2 and wasn't sure where the nearest servo would be off any of the exits hehe.

I got the 622km just by driving from Penrith -> Canberra -> Penrith -> Seven Hills. I was using Shell Optimax with a standard airbox, standard airfilter, standard turbo, 7psi boost and it was pretty much about 550km of pure 110km/h highway driving (5th gear doing 110km/h @ 3,100rpm) and 72km of normal driving (happy laps around Canberra Summernats). and 1 extra passenger with luggage (around 160kg more than I normally carry).

I'm pretty happy with that result because its still only the standard ECU so with a PowerFC and a good tune im sure it would go beyond 650km but I won't know until 2005 when I go to the Summernats again hehe.

I get round 220-240kms on half tank, but i dont usually throttle too hard (too many cops in my area). Got apexi pod, custom hiflow cat and cat back 3.5 inch, AFC. Car's poorly tuned atm. Dont know why, but when I do go hard the fuel difference is not very much, prob drops to round 200kms on half tank. Always thought that my car drank too much for the amount of go it gave compared to a mates 180.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...