Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last 2 tanks ive been getting a worst of 414 @ 52 litres and then 435 @ 52 litres. The 414 had heaps of thrashings and even a few with the 435. Half tank on these i was getting between 200-220. Now im driving like a granny, and the current tank i have 240 and its still just above half.

if you get 200kms from either the top half or bottom half of the tank your doing very well.

melbourne seems to have better petrol than sydney - i always read skyline melbourn'ites averaging over 400km a tank which is around 12l/100km's, which is doable i guess...im more 12.5-13l/100km. around 400km is my average.

i have powerfc, 13psi boost, full exhaust & hiflow cat, front mount, hiflow filter element. the powerfc makes a large difference, before the PFC i was averaging about 350km per tank.

i get just around 400 and i thought that was shitty... 1st half usually goes quicker as I fang it, then realise after 1 day i have already used a half tank and take it easy.

worst I ever got was 210km out of a tank.... got 185km out 60L on an STi once :( redline the whole time almost.

I almost always get 400km and drive till the fuel light is on. She's an auto and i'm not afraid of the GO pedal, best has been 520 on a country drive with some WOT. Worst was 270, all with a cat back and no noticeable difference with modded ECU more boost and pod filter.

  • 2 months later...

I smashed my previous fuel consumption record (552km from 63L = 11.4L per/100km). It now stands at 622km from 60L = 9.6L per/100km, I could have pushed it to up around 640km but I didn't want to risk it because I was about to turn onto the M2 and wasn't sure where the nearest servo would be off any of the exits hehe.

I got the 622km just by driving from Penrith -> Canberra -> Penrith -> Seven Hills. I was using Shell Optimax with a standard airbox, standard airfilter, standard turbo, 7psi boost and it was pretty much about 550km of pure 110km/h highway driving (5th gear doing 110km/h @ 3,100rpm) and 72km of normal driving (happy laps around Canberra Summernats). and 1 extra passenger with luggage (around 160kg more than I normally carry).

I'm pretty happy with that result because its still only the standard ECU so with a PowerFC and a good tune im sure it would go beyond 650km but I won't know until 2005 when I go to the Summernats again hehe.

I get round 220-240kms on half tank, but i dont usually throttle too hard (too many cops in my area). Got apexi pod, custom hiflow cat and cat back 3.5 inch, AFC. Car's poorly tuned atm. Dont know why, but when I do go hard the fuel difference is not very much, prob drops to round 200kms on half tank. Always thought that my car drank too much for the amount of go it gave compared to a mates 180.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...