Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have a stockish r33, the cost for maintenance is more than you think when you think about it... tyres, service ever 5000km which is roughly every couple of months for me, any problems that come up, it all adds up every little thing.. next thing you know your working saturday to pay for it all LOL

oh and speeding fines :down:

I reckon you can, but can you really?

I mean you ask can you afford one, but can you afford not to have one?

If you answered yes or no to your own question, then you must ask yourself "what was the answer?"

Yes or No?

No or Yes?

man i think just keep looking its haed to sell cars now so ull find one for a good price ... i think paying 12k for a r32 is wayy to much im sure u can get a good 1 for 8k ... i sold my 96 r33 with some mods and low k;s for 12.500 and it was very good cond .. so to pay that for a 89 not a really good deall ..i think wait a littl more and get a gtst r32 for round 8k ..dw about full insurace i didnt get it :P

man i think just keep looking its haed to sell cars now so ull find one for a good price ... i think paying 12k for a r32 is wayy to much im sure u can get a good 1 for 8k ... i sold my 96 r33 with some mods and low k;s for 12.500 and it was very good cond .. so to pay that for a 89 not a really good deall ..i think wait a littl more and get a gtst r32 for round 8k ..dw about full insurace i didnt get it :thumbsup:

Lol?

You can get one for 8k... but it will be Bunky, need Lots of TLC/Money to get it going good/nice

Even 32's Built for Drifting/track racing and have nothing in them start around 10k.... Unless of course its broken etc etc :laugh:

its ok to be able to save up for one but realistic minimum costs are

10 to 12k for car

800 for a set of tyres a year minimum

600 per year in rego

160 bux a fortnight fuel if you take it easy

100 bux a fortnight on insurance or 2500/y

120 to 150 per service per 5000ks or 3 months if you do it yourself

so generally its gunna cost you about 350 bux / forgnight just for general running. if anything goes wrong that will go up very quickly

Edited by Pal

600 a year for rego???

If he's only doing 5-10'000kms per year, running costs are alot lower, ie; fuel, servicing, tyres

Insurance will probably only need to be 3rd party+fire+theft as well.

In my experience, Insuarance costs is more to do with age than the vehicle...I was quoted $2'500 P/A for my 94 Maxima, and the same again for a 95 Infiniti Q45 I was real close to buying. My Maxima is faster than my Ceffy but doesnt fall under the "high performance" criteria, so I guess its just insurance companies not trusting young males.

Spend atleast $10'000 on base car.

Easier to sleep at night knowing it's all good.

Edited by Nic_A31
I now have $10.3k all up to spend so Im gonna start looking for one I like and hopefully I'll have one in the next couple of months

if i were u, i would wait until i have around 15k or more before i start searching for 1. That way, u would have enough change to fix any minor issues of the car that u have just bought + maintainence fees etc. U wouldn't want to scratch ur head and start looking for more money and see ur car sitting there in the garage for the next 6 months or so because something broke and u couldn't afford to fix it.

my2cents

Only buy one if you dont mind living off every pay check..

If your scraping every single penny you have at the moment please take in mind that you will have rego, stamp duty, maintenance etc etc.

In all honesty you should save a bit more and have at least an extra 2-3k just incase.

Edited by sushiboi

mm yeah you can get a good one for round 8 - 9 k .. i hav two friends that spent round that much on then and they hav had no probs ...( im not saying buy the 1st one you see wait for a good r32 to come round ) both my mates got a good deal 1 was stokish and the other had a bit more mods and they both in ok condition ..... i no i would neva pay 12k for a r32 (but6 thats just me evry1 is difrent) ...

If you want no probs get urself a r33 i think .... good luck with it anyways mate skylines r killah carss :thumbsup:

its ok to be able to save up for one but realistic minimum costs are

10 to 12k for car

800 for a set of tyres a year minimum

600 per year in rego

160 bux a fortnight fuel if you take it easy

100 bux a fortnight on insurance or 2500/y

120 to 150 per service per 5000ks or 3 months if you do it yourself

so generally its gunna cost you about 350 bux / forgnight just for general running. if anything goes wrong that will go up very quickly

This is what my r33 costs me in regards to maintaince... upgrades is ontop of all of this. =)

10 to 12k for car Bought for 15k in 2007.

800 for a set of tyres a year minimum Paid 1000 for 4 new tyres + alignment in nov 2007, it is now June 2009 and ive still got great tread on them, so i doubt he will need 800 per yr as long as your not doing burn outs everywhere.

600 per year in rego $232 per 6 months.. so thats $464 for the year

160 bux a fortnight fuel if you take it easy I pay approx $45 dollars a week on BP Ultimate. Travel the odd ~250kms a week. (sometimes more sometimes less)

100 bux a fortnight on insurance or 2500/y $1450 for full yr insurance or $550 for third party + fire and theft

120 to 150 per service per 5000ks or 3 months if you do it yourself $108 for royal purple oil, $8 for ryco filter (For basic 5k service). Every few serivices i will also do rear diff oil - Castrol - $20 bucks.

As for major servicing it cost me the following (For parts only, labour was done by me unless otherwise stated):

Full engine and radiator coolant flush, replaced with Tech 100 - $70 bucks for 10 litres

Bled and replaced brake fluid with DOT4 Castrol - $20 for 2 bottles

Bled and replaced power steering fluid - $20

Bled and replaced gearbox fluid Redline Super light - $120

Bled and replace clutch fluid - $20

Changed Spark plugs with NGK irridums - $80

Changed Clutch with exedy cushion button - $585 + $600 for installion + servicing of gearbox (included changing all gaskets)

100 000km service - 900 (for parts and labour)

Cleaning ACC with carby cleaner - $10

NGK 02 sensor - $75

Thats all i can think of atm in regards to basic servicing you will need to do with most r32/r33's

Hope it helps.

Edited by br3ndan

all this budgeting is great - and very useful, i have a similar one set up in an excel spreadsheet..

one thing is being over looked i think - and that is the "if shit really gets f**ked up"

for example if u stack it and need to come up with $2k for the insurance excess,

if your waterpump goes and smashes into your radiator (happened to me in november 08)

etc etc..

basically the back up cash you need just in case something happens..

i always make sure i have around $2k sitting in an account that i can easily get to and withdraw in case the worst possible situation happens at the worst possible time - murphies law

just something to think about..

You guys all make owning a skyline sound expensive and crazy.

I Got...

R33 - 15k

Insurance - $800 per year / $250 excess (Shannon's)

If you need repairs, ask Dad for a loan, get a second job or sell it.

Simple, by it, insure it (comprehensive) and drive it.

Do it mate, your only young once.

Blinky

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...