Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

build_12.JPG

build_24.JPG

build_28.JPG

custom diff

build_16.jpg

build_26.JPG

build_22.JPG

build_19.JPG

build_05.JPG

build_44.JPG

Mitsubishi Evo 6

Weight - 1190kg

Engine:

Fully blueprinted and balanced.

2.2L Tomei Crank, Arrow rods, JE Pistons. 9.4:1 comp ratio.

ARP main and head studs.

HKS 1.2mm head gasket.

Balancer shaft removed, modified oil pump.

Norris spec Piper cams and valve springs, solid lifters, Jun Titanium retainers.

HKS adjustable cam pulleys.

Ferrea 1mm oversize inlet and exhaust valves, Bronze valve guides.

Custom Port job and combustion chamber reprofile and matching.

Ceramic coated Norris/Shearer tubular exhaust manifold, Tial 44mm wastegate, Garrett T04Z turbo.

AMS inlet manifold, custom made Garrett cored intercooler, Custom 3” inlet pipework.

AMS baffled wet sump.

Custom Breather with oil/air separator and return to sump with non return valve.

Sparktech M&W pro 12 COP ignition system.

Walbro lift pump, custom made swirl pot, Bosch 044 main pump, custom fit fuel cooler and ducting.

Modified standard fuel rail, RC engineering 1200cc injectors, Sard FPR. -8 supply, -6 return.

Koyo aluminium radiator with dual lightweight fans.

Fluidampr.

Motec M48 Pro ECU

Motec 4 Bar map sensor.

Custom modified 3” full magnex exhaust with custom centre silencer.

Custom uprated Oil cooler with Custom Ducting.

Approx 700bhp on super and 800bhp on VP import @ 2.4 bar and 8000rpm.

Rev limit 8350rpm

Drivetrain:

Custom rear diff housing from billet alloy.

Rear Cusco RS LSD with 35deg ramp angle and low preload.

Front Cusco RS LSD with 35 deg ramp angle and low preload, and soft centre viscous diff.

Quartermaster cerametallic twin plate clutch.

Rebuilt gearbox with uprated Ricardo output shaft

Shot peened front and rear crownwheel and pinions.

Suspension:

KW Competition 2way Race suspension, 9kg front, 10kg rear,

KW rear top mounts, Custom caster adjustable front top mounts.

Cusco 25mm front anti-roll bar, Perrin 25mm rear anti-roll bar

Custom front ball joints for adjusting roll centre.

Whiteline rear roll centre adjusting kit.

All suspension and engine bushes replaced with polybushes.

Front wishbone rear offset bush for increased front caster.

Custom Adjustable drop links front and rear.

Chassis:

Full FIA T45 cromoly weld in cage with custom rear crossmember brace.

Custom T45 cromoly dash support beam.

Custom T45 cromoly Longitudinal engine/gearbox support.

Custom T45 cromoly lateral brace.

Body de-skinned and lightened where possible without compromising strength.

Custom Modified Ralliart front strutbrace with engine damper bracket.

Rexspeed Carbon engine damper.

Custom Alloy lightweight rear diff support brackets.

Body:

Varis carbon roof

Carbon boot

Custom modified doors with lightweight aluminium inner skins and 4mm Poly windows all round.

Motorsport Heated front windscreen

Brakes:

Custom made front brake kit, Porsche 6 pot monoblock calipers, 362mm AP racing discs

Custom bells and brackets, Carbotech XP10 pads front and rear.

Braided lines throughout, no ABS, Tilton brake bias valve, hydraulic handbrake.

Custom Brake master cylinder stopper.

Motul RBF600 fluid.

Wheels/tyres:

SSR type C 18x8.5 with 245/40/18 Dunlop D03G.

BBS CH Motorsport 18x8.5 with 225/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup.

Enkei NT03 +M 18x9.5 with 265/35/18 Toyo R888.

Interior:

Custom modified flocked lightened dash.

SPA gauges, Oil temp/pressure, Inlet temp/Fuel Pressure.

Knocklink Knock sensor.

AEM wideband AFR gauge.

Greddy B spec 2 boost controller.

ECU controlled Shift light.

Cobra Evolution Carbon/Kevlar seats.

Schroth 6 point harnesses.

500gram driver cooling fan

Lightweight racing battery.

Custom rebuilt wiring loom.

Custom carbon control panel.

Safety:

Lifeline Zero 2000 electric fully plumbed in extinguisher system.

Lifeline Zero 2000 handheld Fire extinguisher.

Cartek Solid State Battery Isolator Kit with external cutoff.

FIA Roll cage padding.

FIA T45 weld in roll cage.

Front tow loop.

Near future to fit:

Varis front bumper with canards and carbon splitter.

GP sports wide front wings.

Carbon side skirts and carbon rear diffuser.

Custom wide rear arches.

:cool:

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=268523

KPGC10-167.jpg

KPGC10-144.jpg

KPGC10-234.jpg

KPGC10-222.jpg

KPGC10-003.jpg

KPGC10-130.jpg

KPGC10-068.jpg

KPGC10-109.jpg

KPGC10-249.jpg

KPGC10-240.jpg

KPGC10-195.jpg

KPGC10-149.jpg

KPGC10-267.jpg

Engine:

- Race-spec S20 engine

- Forged pistons

- H-section connecting rods

- High-lift camshafts

- Solex 44 mm carburetors

- Custom exhaust system

- Large core racing radiator

- High-intensity ignition coils

- Custom oil catch tank

Transmission:

- Lightweight flywheel

Suspension & Brakes:

- Custom dampers

- AP Racing 4-pot front calipers

- N1 ventilated rotors

Wheels & Tires:

- Watanabe wheels 16”x8” front, 16”x9” rear

- Yokohama DNA GP 225/45/ZR16 front, 245/45/ZR16 rear

Interior:

- Recaro seats

- Custom half-type roll cage

- Datsun racing steering wheel

- Spot welded chassis

- Stripped out interior

TSCompR-003.jpg

TSCompR-046.jpg

TSCompR-014.jpg

TSCompR-052.jpg

TSCompR-059.jpg

TSCompR-062.jpg

TSCompR-071.jpg

TSCompR-076.jpg

TSCompR-078.jpg

Engine:

- Top Secret prepped block (oil/water galley etc.)

- HKS Step III 2.8 L kit (87 mm x 77.7 mm)

- Nismo N1 bearings and seals

- HKS IN/EX metal gaskets

- Trust extended oil pan and pick up

- Trust oil pan baffle plating

- HKS Metal Flow air filters (x2) & polished speed density conversion

- HKS GT-2835R A/R 0.73 turbine kit (x2)

- ARC Pro Class twin entry intercooler

- Nismo GT surge tank

- Top Secret/NAPREC custom port matched

- Custom NAPREC ø49 mm oversized throttles

- HKS exhaust manifolds

- HKS GT wastegate (x2)

- Top Secret Drag front pipes ø 80 mm

- HKS Metal Sports ø 75 mm sports catalyser

- Trust Ti-R titanium exhaust system 90 mm

- Bosh Motorsport 550 fuel pumps (x2) & Nismo in-tank fuel pump

- Top Secret fuel collector

- Earls custom braided fuel lines & fittings

- Sard fuel pressure regulator

- Trust Grex fuel rail

- Top Secret/Sard 1000 cc/min injectors

- Top Secret SPL ported & polished head

- HKS 1.2 mm metal head gasket

- Tomei head bolts

- HKS 272º & 10.5 mm lift (IN/EX)

- HKS Limited Edition Valcon V-Cam Pro 16/30

- Tomei valve springs (double)

- Tomei titanium valve retainers

- Tomei valve seats

- Top Secret slide cam pulleys

- Top Secret Super timing belt

- Blitz Racing 8 spark plugs

- Nismo N1 engine mounts

- Trust oil pump

- Nismo N1 water pump

- Yashio Super Race radiator

- Sard Type-D thermo

- Sard water filler cap

- Billion polished power steering fluid tank

- Top Secret oil catch tank custom rerouted into intake

- HRD 130A High Power alternator

- M-spec Nur high power battery and upgraded lines

- HKS 15-row oil cooler

- Trust oil filter relocation & HKS billet filler cap

- Top Secret oil bypass collector tank & Earls lines

- Tabata RR Race radiator & HKS cap

- Garage Defend carbon radiator shroud

- Samco silicone radiator hoses

- Robson carbon fan shroud

- Robson carbon fuse box cover

- Robson carbon spark cover

- Top Secret chromed engine covers

- HKS F-Con V Pro fueling computer

Transmission:

- ATS twin plate carbon clutch with 1350 kg pressure plate

- ATS lightened & balanced flywheel

- Nismo Spec III racing clutch operating cylinder

- Top Secret Super Release shift fork

- Nismo large diameter input shaft

- Cusco Type RS rear LSD

Suspension & Brakes:

- Nitron Pro NTCNIO12R 3-way adjustable racing suspension kit

- Cusco adjustable rear upper arms

- Top Secret HICAS remover kit

- Ikeya Formula front pillow adjuster links

- Ikeya Formula front upper links

- Ikeya Formula roll center adjuster lower arms kit

- Ikeya Formula tie rod ends

- Ikeya Formula multi-link spacers

- Ikeya Formula adjuster rear lower arms

- Ikeya Formula rear camber adjuster bar arms

- Ikeya Formula traction adjuster rods

- Ikeya Formula rear knuckle pillow bushes

- Cusco carbon Pro front strut bar

- Brembo 8-pot calipers with 380 mm 2-piee slotted rotors (front)

- Brembo 4-pot calipers with 355 mm 2-piece slotted rotors (rear)

- Endless CC-R brake pads

- Top Secret braided brake lines

Wheels & Tires:

- Spark Silver Volk Racing TE37 19x9.5 +12 (front & rear)

- Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 275/30/19 (front & rear)

Exterior:

- Top Secret custom dark grey blue pearl paint with glass coating

- Nismo Z-tune front bumper

- Top Secret carbon front diffuser

- Nismo Z-tune front fenders

- Nismo R-tune carbon vented hood

- Top Secret carbon hood dampers

- Do-Luck side skirts

- Top Secret rear carbon diffuser

- Top Secret rear carbon vortex generators

- Ganador Super Mirror

- Nismo dry carbon rear wing blade

- Custom Top Secret carbon wing mounts

- Shaved 3rd brake light and lock from trunk lid

- Top Secret smoked LED fog lights/reverse lights

- Sunline Racing v2 LED lights with LED blinkers

- Nismo front & side smoked indicators

- Nismo carbon pillar garnish

- R35 GT-R front grille emblem

- PIAA carbon type wipers

Interior:

- Top Secret custom spot welded chassis

- Top Secret/Personal steering wheel with Robson Leather alcantara & blue stitching

- RBH boss

- Ronson Leather custom carbon/alcantara upholstering

- Robson Leather carbon center console & various inserts

- Robson Leather alcantara headliner

- Nismo Combination Meter

- XaNavi Birdview navigation system

- Blitz Type-R Dual SBC

- Nismo MFD Ver. 2

- HKS Type 1 turbo timer

- HKS Variable fan controller

- HKS V-Cam controller

- NEKO Corporation AF700 A/F meter

- Pioneer DEH P919 head unit

- Top Secret gear knob

- V-spec II pedal set

16750_1192286761241_1050551866_30560355_4064579_n.jpg

16750_1192286801242_1050551866_30560356_1996885_n.jpg

16750_1192286841243_1050551866_30560357_4463700_n.jpg

- Hyper 12 pull start engine

- Aluminium oil filled shocks

- Blue aluminium anodized chassis parts

- Tuned pipe

- 2-speed gearbox

- Front and rear geared diffs

- Front universal CVA driveshafts

:cool:

another 'if i win the lotto' car;

chevrolet-corvette-zr1-03.jpg

corvette. 6.2l. supercharged. 640HP. 'nough said?

407849.1-lg.jpg

uber f**king cool for a hyundai. available with a 2L turbo 4 or a 3.8L 6.

think so, yes.

also, too aggressive?

IMG_3179.jpg

IMG_3181.jpg

IMG_3187.jpg

18x10 +12. yes, the same size and style wheels luke has. im emulating. :P

Edited by scandyflick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...