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HKS's ultimate street modified "R."

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Engine

- HKS RB28 kit (forged pistons, conrods, crank) [2,771 cc]

- HKS V-Cam system

- HKS T04Z A/R 0.81 single turbine conversion kit, GT wastegate

- HKS metal head gasket

- HKS Power Flow filter

- HKS head

- HKS stainless steel manifold

- HKS metal catalyzer

- HKS High Power Muffler EV-R

- HKS R-type intercooler

- HKS oil cooler

- HKS F-Con V-pro ECU

- Custom carbon oil catch tank

- HKS Twin Power ignition amplifier

- Custom carbon fuse box

- Custom relocated power steering tank

- Carbon radiator shrouding

Drivetrain

- HKS triple plate clutch

- Front LSD

Suspension & Chassis

- HKS Hipermax Performer adjustable suspension kit

- 9kg/mm springs (front & rear)

- HKS carbon front strut tower bar

Wheels & Brakes

- Yokohama Advan Model 5 10.5x19 (front & rear)

- Yokohama DNA GP (275/30/ZR19)

- Endless 6 pot front and 4-pot rear brake kit

Exterior

- Nismo side and rear skirts

- Rear wing stay extensions

- Nismo clear front & side repeaters

- Nissan factory oil cooler intakes

- HKS Kansai Service FRP hood

Interior

- Full Robson Leather leather/carbon leather interior

- Nismo 320 Km/h orange combination meter

- Robson Leather factory steering wheel leather kit

- HKS Turbo timer

- HKS Circuit Lap Counter

- HKS A/F Knock Amp

- HKS EVC boost controller

- HKS EV-R control unit

- Alpine CDA-9805J CD Head Unit

- Robson Leather Carbon center console

- HKS D1 shift knob

- HKS F-Con Navigator

- HKS Oil pressure gauge

- HKS Boost gauge

- HKS Oil temperature gauge

- HKS V-Cam control unit

  • 2 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
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