Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what hweels are you going with?

i am looking for a track wheel set up.

18 inch enkei GTC01 or 18 inch work wheels XD9 (jaxquickfit sell these)

also enquiring through Mike Bratcher from NAGTROC (bulletproof automotive - good reputation) re a set of Volks RE 30 19 inch rims (10 inch front, 11 inch rear)

Mike recommends Hoosier R6 over the Toyo 888 in 19 inch, apparently more aggerssive and same roling daimater on the 19inch wheels front and back $1300 per set + shipping USD of course Volks are $4000 USD for 19s.

Anyone have experience or know of the Hoosier R6?

please for the love of god dont put XD9's on ur R35.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what hweels are you going with?

i am looking for a track wheel set up.

18 inch enkei GTC01 or 18 inch work wheels XD9 (jaxquickfit sell these)

also enquiring through Mike Bratcher from NAGTROC (bulletproof automotive - good reputation) re a set of Volks RE 30 19 inch rims (10 inch front, 11 inch rear)

Mike recommends Hoosier R6 over the Toyo 888 in 19 inch, apparently more aggerssive and same roling daimater on the 19inch wheels front and back $1300 per set + shipping USD of course Volks are $4000 USD for 19s.

Anyone have experience or know of the Hoosier R6?

I have no experience with the R6s but I have tried the R888s in 19inch on an R35 on the track and they were not as good as even the factory dunlops. so I'd definitely give them a miss for your 35. if the R6s are supposed to be better they are certainly worth a try.

for wheels consider some 19inch TE37s. Russ has used a set on his 35 and they looked and worked fine. a nice, good looking, tough wheel. being light and strong doesn't hurt either. the only downside of them is the price but they are not silly expensive for a good forged wheel.

Any Sydney boys want to bring a set over when I get mine, I am looking at placing an order and for the frieght and clearance side we can split it, I will have my customs guys handle everything.

PM if interested.

Cheers,

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

I am after 2x 285/35/19.. i am happy to order if it works out cheaper. Where you getting them from? If tirerack gets them from Japan wouldn't it be cheaper to get directly from Japan?

Thanks,

manu

haha thanks for the heads up :P

looking to go with the Rays/Volk racing forged monoblocks, more expensive as the Baron suggests but a good wheel

definately, the XD9's are just a cheap cast wheel, quite heavy, and not really that strong, would be a massive downgrade from standard wheels.

what hweels are you going with?

i am looking for a track wheel set up.

18 inch enkei GTC01 or 18 inch work wheels XD9 (jaxquickfit sell these)

also enquiring through Mike Bratcher from NAGTROC (bulletproof automotive - good reputation) re a set of Volks RE 30 19 inch rims (10 inch front, 11 inch rear)

Mike recommends Hoosier R6 over the Toyo 888 in 19 inch, apparently more aggerssive and same roling daimater on the 19inch wheels front and back $1300 per set + shipping USD of course Volks are $4000 USD for 19s.

Anyone have experience or know of the Hoosier R6?

I'm getting 18 inch Enkei GTC0, US$349 each from Tire Rack

Edited by GGTTRR
Not to put a negative spin on this...BUT check them on arrival in front of staff....I had forged wheels sent from the UK for

my Exige and they where damaged the first time and the even the replacements had slight damage from transit....

Don't wait till you get home to check.....

Thanks for the advice, I'll make sure to check them

I have no experience with the R6s but I have tried the R888s in 19inch on an R35 on the track and they were not as good as even the factory dunlops. so I'd definitely give them a miss for your 35. if the R6s are supposed to be better they are certainly worth a try.

for wheels consider some 19inch TE37s. Russ has used a set on his 35 and they looked and worked fine. a nice, good looking, tough wheel. being light and strong doesn't hurt either. the only downside of them is the price but they are not silly expensive for a good forged wheel.

I'm surprised you had bad experience with R888. I've been using them on my Evo and they worked fine. Maybe the 19" don't work well.

I'll be getting 18" R888 for my new toy.

I'm surprised you had bad experience with R888. I've been using them on my Evo and they worked fine. Maybe the 19" don't work well.

I'll be getting 18" R888 for my new toy.

19 x 10 and 19 x 11 setup with either R888 or hoosier R6 is very popular in NA. people seem very happy with hoosier performanc ein the NAGTROC and other forums

dont worry not buying the cast wheels. looking at the volk re30's in 19 as above, good light strong forged wheel :P

set of 4 19 inch hoosiers to 295f and 315r fit 19 x 10 and 19 x 11 wheels costs $1300 US. with shipping and tax etc to add on top of that, still a great price. Seems these 19 inch tyres are more aggressive than the RE55 and ?not anymore expensive?

Is a tyre this aggressive a bad idea for a track beginner?

Duncan how many track hours/sessions you getting out of the RE55s?

happy for blunt advice

If this looks good, anyone else interested in a 19 inch setup for group buy?

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?sh...=30523&st=0

product_photo-large_image-67.jpg

The 19" R6 Hooiser setup looks good. I would definitely give it a go. Personally i can't use them because a) I sometimes need to drive to the track on the track rims/tyres, no way they are legal or safe in the wet really and b) those tyres are not approved by cams - so i cannot use them in the NSW sprints. They are basically a slick.

Otherwise, i'm very keen to see how you go. I think it will be better than the 19" 888's but i am talking out of my arse really (never tried the 888's personally). Probably quicker than the 55's too yep.

Edited by LSX-438

My wheels arrived in Australia form US. There is a import duty of 10% of the purchase price plus 10% GST on purchase price and shipping cost. Total A$450.

It looks like if you place two orders (two wheels each) and keep the purchase price to below A$1000 it will not attract the import duty or GST. The shipment will be more expensive but it probably will work out cheaper. I suspect the same will apply to tyres.

Edited by GGTTRR
I'm surprised you had bad experience with R888. I've been using them on my Evo and they worked fine. Maybe the 19" don't work well.

I'll be getting 18" R888 for my new toy.

yeah they have been good on my old GTI-R, and good on a silvia and even good on a 32 GTR, but a 35 GTR is a different story with a lot more weight and a lot more lateral load on them. trust me, they were a step back from the standard dunlops on track. the times showed that too. about a second or so off at oran park GP.

if you are going 18s, get the RE55s. or even better still some dunlop DZ03G. they will be much better I think.

Hi all,

For anyone chasing R35 GTR tyres we keep them in stock in Sydney.

dunloptyresetr35-01.jpg

http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=403

Please either pm me directly, or phone Darron in store on (02) 9545 0532 and we are more than happy to look after you.

Cheers,

Steve

If they are more than $600 each we will only buy one in an emergency ie. if we get a fatal side wall puncture :(

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys, I am new to forums so please exuse any mistake I make.

I have Dunlop 255/40ZR20 and 285/35ZR20 Sport 600 for sale for $760.00ea front and $985.00ea rear to suit R35 GTR.

I have the Bridgestone version on order but not in stock at the moment.

Hi Guys, I am new to forums so please exuse any mistake I make.

I have Dunlop 255/40ZR20 and 285/35ZR20 Sport 600 for sale for $760.00ea front and $985.00ea rear to suit R35 GTR.

I have the Bridgestone version on order but not in stock at the moment.

where are you located?

I have heard here and on other forums how the 18 inch with RE55s or similar perform quite well relative to the bridgestones. anyone know how the setup compares to the stock 20 inch dunlops?

I am able to import the dunlops at a reasonable price (600-650 aus) as people have noted in the thread. are these similar in price to local Aus 18 inch RE55 rubber prices? if so, is the 18 inch setup that much faster than the dunlops and does the RE55 SR2 compound have that much longer track life?

lots of questions i know but about to bite the bullet one way or another before the NFY.

I have heard here and on other forums how the 18 inch with RE55s or similar perform quite well relative to the bridgestones. anyone know how the setup compares to the stock 20 inch dunlops?

I am able to import the dunlops at a reasonable price (600-650 aus) as people have noted in the thread. are these similar in price to local Aus 18 inch RE55 rubber prices? if so, is the 18 inch setup that much faster than the dunlops and does the RE55 SR2 compound have that much longer track life?

lots of questions i know but about to bite the bullet one way or another before the NFY.

I cant speak for the Dunlops but i have done 5 track days using a single set of 18" RE55's - and they are shagged now. Might get another day out of them but i think the performance of them is gone (perhaps too many heat cycles). The RE55's are much faster than the 20" Bridgestones (by at least 2 seconds around Oran Park for me anyway). Price for the RE55's is about $600~$650 each.

I would love to see how well the 20" Dunlops go in comparison, by all accounts they are better than the OEM Bridgestones. You can't beat the convenience of running the same wheels/tyres you rock up in. But by using dedicated track rims/tyres you at least have some "backup".

I don't think the rubber is the only part of the equation when going to 18's.... You are changing gearing (by about 12%) and also reducing weight (by about 6kg at each corner). These things make a difference too.

Anyway out of interest, what's the best price for the 20" Dunlops locally?

I don't think the rubber is the only part of the equation when going to 18's.... You are changing gearing (by about 12%) and also reducing weight (by about 6kg at each corner). These things make a difference too.

I was just looking at carbon fiber wheels on www.dymag.com and they state that reducing wheel weight(unsprung weight) by 8kg over 4 wheels ie 2kg per wheel equals reducing body weight by 48kg so if that is accurate then 6kg's per corner is massive.144kg in fact.

agree with all of the above re unsprung weight, gearing, wall stiffness/profiles compounds available etc. :happy: there are so many variables that the easiest comparison is simply how the 2 different setups compare on the track and the relative value and track life of each. seems not too many ADM guys have the dunlops for comparison, any JDM guys out there have experience with the dunlops?

Edited by handbrake

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...