Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Well I'm having some more, almost minor problems with my s1 stagea. Occasionally (e.g once every few drives), usually during breaking or situations where the throttle is closed, my stagea pulls to the left, as if the alignment is quite off - which its not as 95% of the time when this doesn't happen it's perfect. It only lasts a few seconds and usually straightens itself out pretty quick so its not terribly critical, but it sure is annoying.

I'm in the process of fixing a few problems which I had when I bought it (not long ago) as can be seen in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...ea-t269756.html

So any ideas or experiences? Brakes? power steering? Suspension or something? Or does it sound like an automatic control problem?

Cheers

Nah. Don't know what a castor bush is...

You'll have to excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge, but on the last service (done by previous owner) it was noted there were cracks in the radius rod bushes(?). Would this be worth looking into?

cheers again

yeah thats a castor rod bush :D

replace them, probably will probably go away. they are mostly oil filled bushes and they crack and then leak over time thus making the car pull or handly weirdly.

get new ones, nolathane or whiteline bushes. or go all out and get rose joined asdjustable castor arms. depends on how you drive and how comfortable you want it to be :(

yeah thats a castor rod bush :D

replace them, probably will probably go away. they are mostly oil filled bushes and they crack and then leak over time thus making the car pull or handly weirdly.

get new ones, nolathane or whiteline bushes. or go all out and get rose joined asdjustable castor arms. depends on how you drive and how comfortable you want it to be :(

I'm guessing r33 GTR fits straight in there?

Yes i have R33 adjustable castor arms. You can just replace the bushes but if you are thinking of getting the eccentric bushes which will give you a fraction more castor you may as well get adjustable castor arms as they are not much more expensive than buying bushes and getting them pressed out and in. With castor arms i am running 6deg on the left and 5.75 deg on the rt ( to compensate for the road camber). Stock you can't get much more than 4.5deg. Some skylines run up to 9deg castor ( the more castor the better your straight line stability esp at speed) but you are limited by the 4wd and 6deg seems enough.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys, Just want some advice on r34 GTT ac system. Since I’ve owned it, the ac compressor, doesn’t matter the set temperature or ambient temperature, runs for around 10 seconds then disengages the clutch, then re-engages everywhere 30 seconds or so and keeps repeating this.    is this normal?   I had it recharged today as it was slightly low and thought it would fix it but still does it. it cools fine in summer even prior to the recharge, except for the usual warmup when stopped or in traffic (still yet to wire overheat fan to on with ac)   any thoughts would be much appreciated 
    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
×
×
  • Create New...