Jump to content
SAU Community

Finally bought a skyline

MrMeaner
 Share

Recommended Posts

MrMeaner Enthusiast

MrMeaner

Posted
Posted

hi all, just joined, awsome site, how is everyone?

Ive FINALLY! bought a skyline (well ive signed for and the finance has been approved), ive been saving for sooo long and craping on about them for ages.

After work on friday nite i went down to the caryard with my $9000 deposit (cost $22500) to pick it up, but the idiot finance dude forgot to tell me i had to have paid 12 months proved insurance, which i had just paid for 6 months (Famous), o well itll be sorted, on monday, DAMMIT i want it NOW!

My mates tim and nigel bought around a skyline on friday to work, which a local car yard had just got in, so i checked it out and then pretty much bought it straight away, all signed, finance approved same day. Its absolutly awsome, i love it! Thanks Tim im sorry your wife jen wouldnt let you have it. :(

Skyline =

01/95 (compliance 01/03) R33 GTS-T Nissan Skyline (Series 2?) (RB25DET) 5 speed manual, HICAS 4 wheel steering (rare for model?), full body kit, central locking alarm connected to a turbo timer, its white, perfect body, interior is immaculate, darkish tint, real? nismo carbonfibre bits around the windows, it also has 18 INCH MAGS!!!!, all options, rear wiper, all electrics, climate control, CD + Stacker and its only done 55000kms (well on the clock neway) and also the best thing is the motor is UNTOUCHED everything is original (left for us to play with), except an added GFB BOV, its even still got the STOCK exhaust and air filter assembly + stock suspension, so its hopefully unlikely to be a drift/drag car from jap land, we had it up on the hoist at work and there is NO visible damage at all, not even curb scraps anywere underneith.

ive kept some money to the side + ill save up a bit too, cause i have a lot of mods to do, starting from scratch.

i was just wondering what the mags were i hadnt seen them before?, there 18s

+ any hints, tips and past skyline experiances would be greatly appreciated, cheers

cant wait to check out everyone elses machines

catchyas

EDIT: heres some pics:

Front 1

Front 2

Mag

Interior

Motor (eww stockniss)

BOV (ne good?)

Rear

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27302-finally-bought-a-skyline/
Share on other sites
Guilty Proficient

Guilty

Posted
Posted

thats an S1

s1.5 has s1 front and s2 back...or vice versa.....but this one has s1 front and rear.....i think s1.5 is late 95..and since urs is bought in jan..den i think its an s1!!

but anyhowz very nice car..im in the process oflookin for one too...i can get an s1 now..but ive decided to wait a bit more..get another 2k? ..jus enuf for an s2.....congrats on the new car and hopefully i can own 1 soon too hehe

(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

that looks like a series 1.5 to me....from wat i know they dont come in a series 2 back just the rear spoiler and front bar but the skyline garnish is still series 1. check ur engine to see if its a series 2 engine and see if ur boot lock thing is the series 2 one...then ull know:D:D:D i have a series 1.5 too.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I don't want to burst your bubble, but the HICAS is factory standard :P

Also, be wary of the "untouched" engine, it's not uncommon for mildly modded cars to be returned to stock before selling. You can make more money on them that way usually. I wouldn't worry either way though, the engine and gearbox are bulletproof.

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

Def. Series 1. That wing was an option. The headlights, rear badging, bootlock all scream S1.

Looks fairly clean inside.

You paid a lot for a stock series 1 though.

One of the first things *I* would do if I just bought that car would be remove the piece of shit aftermarket blow off valve and use the stock one. Unless there is something wrong with the stock one.

Oh and the Nismo carbon fibre around the window are probably real. The same ones are for sale at UAS (http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/priceli...elist_nismo.htm)

Airzone Rising Star

Airzone

Posted
Posted

Looks exactly like mine - except the colour :-)

To check if you got series 2 bits, you can look for:

- If there's a black box sitting up the rear of the motor about 3 inches square, S1 part. S2 doesn't have this.

- Underneath the air snorkel (lol!), count the wires coming out of the AFM. 3 wires = S2, 4 / 5 wires = S1.

I think there's also something to do with positioning of the fuel regulators, but don't quote me on that.

And yeah, if it's got a turbo, it's got 4 wheel steering :)

Looks nice all up :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...