Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

a few weeks ago ,I read that changing diff ratio's can make your car a lot more responsive down low - my goal is to have a very responsive car – not so worried about top end power and speed . The car is only for street use

A recent thread (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb25det-Mines-R34-G-t270448.html&hl=mines) suggested changing to a 4.636 but I'm thinking maybe a 4.375???.

After speaking to few people in the know they all think it will be insane to change the diff ratio as I will never get any traction in 1st and 2nd.

To give you a better idea about traction issues - currently i have bridgestone 235/40zr18 91y on the front and falken grbrs tune 2 265/35zr18 on the back with some very hard coil over suspension. Car is sitting on about 200rwkw

any advice would be excellent and comments from anyone who had made the change

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273445-result-of-changing-r33-diff-ratio/
Share on other sites

im still running my auto diff ( 4.3) after i had done a manual conversion a few years ago. slowly modded my car up to just over 230rwkw and not really having traction problems in a straight line. put it off balance (going around corners) and you got a bit of a problem. its still up to your right foot. if you dont want to spin, dont put you foot down. personally i think it would be a waste of time and was thinking of putting a manual diff in. my speedo is 9 km to fast at 100 km/h and putting on about 250rpm on where a manual would be. have run down the quarter mile and always have problems getting off the line, where as my fellow skyliners with there manual diffs get off so much cleaner. hope this helps

Edited by Pal

It's always a compromise between responsiveness and traction. I say short ratios are best left to auto cars being run down the strip. I would only put a short ratio diff in a manual street car if it had no guts at all and I wanted a cheap way to get it off the line quickly. Your fuel economy will suffer and the frequent gear changes will also annoy you. Better off opting for more power/torque and you'll soon be at the limits of your current diff's ratio / your tyres, as far as traction goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...