Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would like to polish my R34 (GTT) headlights with the Glassylite kit and also install a LED strip on the inside ... I read somewhere the only way to take the clear plastic cover is to "bake" the entire headlight in the oven so the plastic lets go ...

Doesn't sound like something I really want to do ... has anyone else done it with an R34 here? How do you glue the clear plastic back on ? Any tips appreciated, Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273569-how-to-take-r34-headlights-apart/
Share on other sites

Yeh, you bake them in an oven. Not sure on the temps or amount of time you have them in for.

You do the same to put the headlights back together. Get the glue hot then just stick them together and wait for it to dry.

going to do mine one of these days...

i did it to my pulsar ones, to paint the lens surround black, but they had glass lenses, id assume the same method however.

oven on about 80-90 degrees, pop em in on a tray with baking paper on there, after 2-3 mins pull em out, see if theyre hot (ALMOST too hot to hang on to) if not giv em another minute and keep checking, then you want to GENTLY pry the lense off. just do it a little at a time, if its starting the get difficult, pop them back in the oven.

its best to take your time with this, you dont wanna crack your lense from pulling too hard!

mini disclaimer: i take no responsibility for any damage that occurs from doing this, im not an expert

Gave this a half hearted effort last night and wasn't sure where to start prying the lens off from.. and should the seal be sticky or just gummy? this sucks I have moisture on the inside of the lens and it looks shiat with the headlights on :bunny: help me....

Gave this a half hearted effort last night and wasn't sure where to start prying the lens off from.. and should the seal be sticky or just gummy? this sucks I have moisture on the inside of the lens and it looks shiat with the headlights on :bunny: help me....

You've brought up a good point!

After separating parts of your headlights, you'll need to re-seal them again UNDER LOW HUMIDITY CONDITIONS or you'll end up with moisture on the inside. But if you have a type of lens that is not sealed from outside conditions, you can store the lens in a sealed plastic bag WITH RICE GRAINS OR SILICA GEL PACKS (obtained from medicine bottles) until the moisture disappears.

Rice grains and silica gel act as dessicants (to absorb surrounding water).

can anyone recommend some type of sealant to use to run along the edges after putting the lense back on? Something like sikaflex automotive ..would that be a bad idea? Just to ensure a good seal ..

<br />can anyone recommend some type of sealant to use to run along the edges after putting the lense back on? Something like sikaflex

automotive ..would that be a bad idea? Just to ensure a good seal ..<br />

<br /><br /><br />

----------------------------------------------------------

You can buy mastic in a tube for a few dollars (any auto supplier should stock it) - a small tube should be plenty- its the stuff that was used to seal windscreens before the latest glue-on type windscreens were introduced - it is a very good sealer does not age harden and easy to apply - but maybe someone else can suggest other options

Re a quick short-term fix for getting the moisture out of the h/l when its in situ on car all you need do is take out off the outer circular plastic seal, then the bulb holder and the insdie of the h/l is now exposed and you can use compressed air or any thing similar to blow away any moisture- until you are ready to do the long-term fix.

we do them all the time here at work with motorbike headlamps.....you can just put it in front of a heater or use a heatgun in one section first,then when it starts to open up just follow the opening...its easy

Location and how much??

Seriously this is causing me some heartache... I have discovered that it is not only moisture on the inside but also oxidation similiar to that found on the outside of the lens, cause: the two housing brackets on top of the h/l cracked off exposing the internal of the h/l.. I can't really afford a new factory xenon either >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...