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*****finally Solved My Problem***** Can You

Imtorqing

By Imtorqing,
in Queensland

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Imtorqing Community Regular

Imtorqing

Posted
Posted

THE QUIZ IS REGARDING THE MOTOR PROBLEM NOT WHY IT DIDN'T START IN THE FIRST PLACE CUZ THATS GOT EVERYONE FARKED

Well after a week of suicidal thoughts I have found that my situation wasn't quite what it was.

This is the saga ......................

- Dropped Skyline off at panel beaters after two days of little moves it stopped running NO NOT BATTERY

- Came down found fuel pump not priming although alarm controller battery was flat. Changed remote battery turned the alarm off and on but still wouldn't start.

- Had two different Auto Electricians check it out and couldn't fault the electrics but thought it was the computer as power was going in etc etc. Found for some reason all sensors throttle, injectors etc were not reading.

- Get it towed to nearby workshop HIPOWER RACING - They update the firmware on the Haltech E11V2, the computer and get all sensors back on. They keep kicking it over but it backfires etc and wont run.

GET CHARGED FOR TWO HOURS LABOUR BUT THEY CANT FIND THE PROBLEM

- Get it towed to Competition Tuning and Performance. They find that someone has moved the crank angle sensor(I KNOW WHO).

GET CHARGED FOUR HOURS LABOUR (JUSTIN LOOKED AFTER ME :) ) AND GET IT STARTED AND RUNNING. SOMEONE CUN7 HAD APPARENTLY CHANGED THE INJECTOR OHMS TO 5 OHMS WHICH ALSO BLEW A FUSE TO THE INJECTORS. MY INJECTORS ARE 1000CC SARDS THAT ARE LOW IMPEDANCE 1.5 OHMS.

NOW JUSTIN LETS ME KNOW THAT MY MOTOR SOUNDS FARKED AND BELIEVES THAT SOMEONE HAS FLOGGED IT ETC AS IT SOUNDS LIKE BEARINGS. AT THIS POINT MY WIFE IS WANTING ME TO HUNT DOWN AND KILL MY PANEL BEATERS BUT I KNEW I COULD TRUST THEM.

THIS IS WHERE THE SUICIDAL THOUGHTS CREEP IN AS THIS HAD COST ME OVER $500 AND NOW I WAS LOOKING AT A REBUILD.

I DRIVE ALL THE WAY UP TO CAPALABA AND HEAR THE MOTOR AND IT SOUNDS LIKE A FARKING DIESEL......

ANYWAY I GET IT TOWED TO MY MECHANIC DANIELS DJ SIVYER AT TIMMS COURT, WOODRIDGE AND HE DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM BEFORE IT EVEN ARRIVED........

ANY IDEAS ????????????????????????

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Posted
Posted
THE QUIZ IS REGARDING THE MOTOR PROBLEM NOT WHY IT DIDN'T START IN THE FIRST PLACE CUZ THATS GOT EVERYONE FARKED

Well after a week of suicidal thoughts I have found that my situation wasn't quite what it was.

This is the saga ......................

- Dropped Skyline off at panel beaters after two days of little moves it stopped running NO NOT BATTERY

- Came down found fuel pump not priming although alarm controller battery was flat. Changed remote battery turned the alarm off and on but still wouldn't start.

- Had two different Auto Electricians check it out and couldn't fault the electrics but thought it was the computer as power was going in etc etc. Found for some reason all sensors throttle, injectors etc were not reading.

- Get it towed to nearby workshop HIPOWER RACING - They update the firmware on the Haltech E11V2, the computer and get all sensors back on. They keep kicking it over but it backfires etc and wont run.

GET CHARGED FOR TWO HOURS LABOUR BUT THEY CANT FIND THE PROBLEM

- Get it towed to Competition Tuning and Performance. They find that someone has moved the crank angle sensor(I KNOW WHO).

GET CHARGED FOUR HOURS LABOUR (JUSTIN LOOKED AFTER ME :) ) AND GET IT STARTED AND RUNNING. SOMEONE CUN7 HAD APPARENTLY CHANGED THE INJECTOR OHMS TO 5 OHMS WHICH ALSO BLEW A FUSE TO THE INJECTORS. MY INJECTORS ARE 1000CC SARDS THAT ARE LOW IMPEDANCE 1.5 OHMS.

NOW JUSTIN LETS ME KNOW THAT MY MOTOR SOUNDS FARKED AND BELIEVES THAT SOMEONE HAS FLOGGED IT ETC AS IT SOUNDS LIKE BEARINGS. AT THIS POINT MY WIFE IS WANTING ME TO HUNT DOWN AND KILL MY PANEL BEATERS BUT I KNEW I COULD TRUST THEM.

THIS IS WHERE THE SUICIDAL THOUGHTS CREEP IN AS THIS HAD COST ME OVER $500 AND NOW I WAS LOOKING AT A REBUILD.

I DRIVE ALL THE WAY UP TO CAPALABA AND HEAR THE MOTOR AND IT SOUNDS LIKE A FARKING DIESEL......

ANYWAY I GET IT TOWED TO MY MECHANIC DANIELS DJ SIVYER AT TIMMS COURT, WOODRIDGE AND HE DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM BEFORE IT EVEN ARRIVED........

ANY IDEAS ????????????????????????

wrong fuel?

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted

Chicken soup in your intake manifold?

Busted rivets in the floorpan?

Transmission mound not transmitting?

Central furfle mechanism not balanced?

Doves nesting in the i.c (corrosive dropping caused a leak)?

Doubling the clutch on downshift with a single plate clutch?

Fuel filter?

If it's none of those.....??

Man you must have felt some pain for a while, glad it worked out ok for you.

Happy days hey.

Imtorqing Community Regular

Imtorqing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ANSWER WAS !!!!!!!!

From all the cranking from people trying to get it to run left a fair amount of fuel in the cylinders as it wasn't being burnt up. Then obviously they would think what next and let it sit.

Basically from the motor being cold the fuel would then run past my rings down past the piston and down the rods into the sump.

So basically my car decided to degrease itself. As a result it wasn't lubricating itself.

When we pulled out the dipstick there was almost an inch visible of fuel as obviously fuel and oil seperate.

When you touched the oil it was like water. I have since dropped the oil and put in some Valvoline XLD(Cuz its cheap) and a new filter and the motor has quieted down again.

I will now have to put some good oil back in it, flush the oil cooler and relocated filter assembly again to ensure that all the fuel and current oil gets the fu(k out of my engine and see how it goes. Im hoping as the car was barely run with this problem that there is very little if any damage to the bearings.

Anyway I never knew this could happen although I had heard of cars hydraulic a big end.

Now concentrating on getting her ready for powerplay. I hope it never happens to anyone else as it has been a week of hell.

Cheers

Bill

OH AND YEH.....MY NOS SYSTEM WAS OVERLOADING, I TOLD IT TO SHUT UP AND SLAMMED IT SHUT, THEN MY FLOOR PLAN DROPPED OUT MAKING SPARKS FLY EVERYWHERE.... NOW THE MAD SCIENTIST HAS TO TEAR THE BLOCK DOWN AND REPLACE THE PISTON RINGS THAT I JUST FRIED......

Yes I live a very sad life LOL

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

I had a similar experience with an LJ Torana (my first car)...

Leaking fuel pump (mechanical fuel pump, is lubrcated by the sump oil, driven via the cam shaft)

The difference with more story is the sump went down the head went up and a hole pile of flames said good night to that engine... :thumbsup:

blur Proficient

blur

Posted
Posted

Once you get a bit of heat in that engine all the fuel will evaporate out of the oil, but the mixtures may be a bit rich. Glad to hear it wasnt overly major, still alot of drama you dont want though.

cosmic starz Collaborator

cosmic starz

Posted
Posted

lots of red herrings in the plot - if you go to the start where you dropped off the car at the panel beater and later after they had made lots of short start-ups (to move the car around or whatever ) and you return to find the car won't start but has good battery then what you could have/ should have done is floor the throttle and hit start, this formula is the first thing you should do whenever prolonged cranking gets no start - it eliminates any possibility of flooded engine being the reason for not firing - soon as the motor begins to run you lift off throttle of course! - the method is entirely safe, you won't blow up or over rev a motor that way

the logic is that when any f-inj cars are started lots of fuel is injected in first few seconds (compared to normal running ) and repeated unsuccessful short start-ups or non-starts will almost always flood the cylinders in quick time

in the older days with carbie systems you always would depress the throttle nowadays with f-inj systems you don't need to do that so many people don't even think about flooring the throttle in f-inj motors to clear flooding

Imtorqing Community Regular

Imtorqing

Posted
  • Author
Posted
lots of red herrings in the plot - if you go to the start where you dropped off the car at the panel beater and later after they had made lots of short start-ups (to move the car around or whatever ) and you return to find the car won't start but has good battery then what you could have/ should have done is floor the throttle and hit start, this formula is the first thing you should do whenever prolonged cranking gets no start - it eliminates any possibility of flooded engine being the reason for not firing - soon as the motor begins to run you lift off throttle of course! - the method is entirely safe, you won't blow up or over rev a motor that way

the logic is that when any f-inj cars are started lots of fuel is injected in first few seconds (compared to normal running ) and repeated unsuccessful short start-ups or non-starts will almost always flood the cylinders in quick time

in the older days with carbie systems you always would depress the throttle nowadays with f-inj systems you don't need to do that so many people don't even think about flooring the throttle in f-inj motors to clear flooding

With my Haltech E11V2 computer and average cold start map trust me I know to put the pedal down to get it started. The problem was that the back pump(External O44) was not priming/powering up. That was the initial symptom.

Also trying any interaction with the pedal had absolutely no effect at all as it didn't even make the littlest kick. That's when I knew something was seriously wrong.....

So when you go to start a car and it isn't getting fuel up front it wont start..............Hence that is why I requested the services of an auto electrician of which they could not locate any potential problems.....

So I don't see any red herrings in here...

I went with a logical process of elimination and the funny thing is she is now running but no-one knows why it stopped in the first place.

One possibility was that the panel beaters jumped the car causing it to spike the computer.......

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