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Pre Turbo Install

mickr33

By mickr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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mickr33 Community Regular

mickr33

Posted
Posted

Hi people. Well the slide hi-flow is now out and it is now time for the 3076 to go in. In regards to the studs in the standard manifold is the best thing to get them out with is some CRC and vice grips? Also should i change the standard manifold or will this be adequate. Finally the water line that goes from the turbo to the rear of the engine, how do you get this sucker off? Any help would be appreciated. Thank's :thumbsup:

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Studs - you are more than likely to break a couple mate. CRC them a few times during the day and leave overnight to give you the best chance at getting them all out

Stock manifold is fine

And water line - with a bit of elbow grease, again perhaps CRC overnight.

mickr33 Community Regular

mickr33

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  • Author
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The fun continues as i have now removed the manifold because i noticed four were broken. Is it fairly easy to take the broken one's out with the right tool's or should i call in someone. In regards to spacer plate and oil lines the turbo will be coming in full bolt on kit form (spacer plate, oil and water lines nuts, studs, gaskets etc).

rb2? Explorer

rb2?

Posted
Posted

IMO get rid of the waterlines, i dont see a point for them, when there's hot water running through them all the time.

As for where it ends up is behind the intake manifold, undo the 2 bolts on the head, if the hose doesnt come off you can always chop a bit hoes off, rust normally cramps it and its hard to remove.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

What do you mean you dont see a point for the waterlines...? The turbo is water cooled!!!

As for the broken studs - call someone in. Its not that expensive and there are mobile guys in each state :)

Try get your others out first though, likely more will crack.

mickr33 Community Regular

mickr33

Posted
  • Author
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Thank's for all your imput guys. As far as the bolt for the water line behind the block do i have to really take the driver side rocket cover off. I have to admit though i've tried about five times now and cannot even get the spanner onto it.

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

Also make sure your oil lines are correct because using stock oil line is a no no. When i had my hypergear installed bymyself... i didnt get told to install a aftermarket oil line so therefore it blew up. So make sure u get an oil line.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
That cleared my miss thoughts, ive been running an rb25 turbo without them for a while, guess it couldnt be good for the ceramic wheel.. :(

Id be more worried about the core.

A ball bearing turbo by nature requires less oil to lube the bearings. The offset to this less oil means there is less cooling going on.

Hence ball bearing turbos are ALL water cooled.

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