Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i recently bought a r32 gtr from a private buyer.

car has a fully built engine and is running a to4z with twin rb25 afm (green sticker) and the usual supporting mods.

now today i was going through the power-fc and noticed that the AFM selection was set on stock r33 gtr afm even though its fitted with rb25 afms???

so i switched the power-fc to the rb25 afm selection and took the car for a drive. now weird thing is the car drives alot smoother and comes onto boost earlier and the external gate open much, much earlier. BUT the car dosnt go anywhere near as hard as when its set to r33 gtr afm.

its weird actually, car makes all the correct sounds, revs out smoothly but just dosnt go anywhere when set on rb25 afm.. sort of feels like slipping clutch(its not! brand new twin)

im unsure of what to do? leave the power fc on the setting it came with (r33gtr afm) or switch it to the correct rb25 afm?

im getting it retuned in the next few weeks anyway so im sure the problem can be resolved then.

has anyone else come across this?

any help would be appreciated

thanks

put it back how it was and get it tuned properly

they might have used datalogit and edit'd the AFM ramp directly (unlikeky, but possible) so even though its selected a BCNR33 it could have a completely different ramp. either way, changing it to something different and trashing it, is not a good idea, given it would be using a standard AFM curve to suit HR32/ECR33 (assumption, they might have edit'd that one too)

thanks for the quick reply mate.

yes i understand what you mean about playing with settings and driving the car hard. :(

i only brought it up onto boost once and made sure i watched the knock level... but it was a once only trial and dont c the need to do again!!

however, i will drop by PITS in the next week or so and book her in for a tune.

thanks again

thanks for the quick reply mate.

yes i understand what you mean about playing with settings and driving the car hard. :(

i only brought it up onto boost once and made sure i watched the knock level... but it was a once only trial and dont c the need to do again!!

however, i will drop by PITS in the next week or so and book her in for a tune.

thanks again

change it back to how it was and don't bother getting it tuned. leave it.

why do people have to touch something that aint broke?

guilt-toy- well its not broken but its not exactly the smoothest tune!

plus i would rather get everything checked out for my own piece of mind! plus its cheaper then a rebuild if something was to go(or is) wrong with the tune.

thanks guys.

Edited by alex.a

GTR maf is 65mm

GTST maf is 80mm

they flow more and are larger in size

remember a GTST has 1 x 80mm afm and GTR has 2 x 65mm

so when you fit a PAIR of GTST afm's to a GTR, its a fair upgrade

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's awesome. Fully serviced/full log book history for one of those cars is super rare from what I know. With JDM's like Skyline's, Supras, are quite hard to find one with full log book history. S15's seem to be somewhat of an exception, at least the spec s australian delivered models.
    • Hey all, It's been a bit since I have been able to update.  I pulled the fuel pump, first off it was a "universal" pump and the strainer was very clogged, and it was folded over on itself.  I replaced the fuel pump and all is well....  No more stalling.
    • That's convinced me I'll bump up the G30-660 to 770   Any idea if the difference in boost pressure? Cheers
    • When: Saturday 24th of May 2025 - All day Where: Sydney Dragway, Eastern Creek Cost: Varies - Book direct with the GTR Festival Website We will be there on the day with a stand please reach out via our interest form if you wish to help out with the stand. Limited parking will be available in the display area, first in first served with current members getting priority, please register your interest with the link above also. Please post any great photos you take on the day on this thread and we will try use some in our e-mails/website/social media
    • Hey guys so turns out this project is going to be much bigger than I thought haha but I've done some my homework and have done a few panels on my car, but one part I can just not visualise is this. If I do a spot repair and I put filler in a dent for example and sand outside of the repair with 320 grit lets say so the primer can stick as I will only put primer on that repair and the surrounding area and then repaint the whole panel. Don't I need to make sure that I don't put primer on the old clear coat? I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down, it's still shiny. I thought putting paint on clearcoat or primer on clearcoat is a bad idea because it won't stick. So in this scenario it's a bit different to mine but imagine someone doing a spot repair and only painting that small section of repair but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat. What am I missing?
×
×
  • Create New...