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Knock Sensors

wig r31

By wig r31,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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wig r31 Enthusiast

wig r31

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easy, take the rb25 knock sensors and screw them into the provisions on the rb30 block

Im pretty sure there weren't any spots for them on the 30 block. Just trying to find out if there is another way around it without tapping 2 new threads in the side of my block (I dont get the car back till saturday so I'll check the block again then. Thanks for the idea tho :) )

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Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

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My personal experience as with many others was that the knock sensors were a straight swap. As far as I know both S1 and S2 RB30 blocks have the same provisions for knock sensors as RB20, 25 and 26. If for some reason yours is does not have these you may have to do something custom :)

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Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

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Im pretty sure there weren't any spots for them on the 30 block. Just trying to find out if there is another way around it without tapping 2 new threads in the side of my block (I dont get the car back till saturday so I'll check the block again then. Thanks for the idea tho :) )

Look again.

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wig r31 Enthusiast

wig r31

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Thanks heaps guys. I got the car back yesterday and pulled the inlet plenum off today. the spot for them on the rb20 is just below the head but on the 30 block the spot was there but they were not drilled at all, although there was holes drilled and tapped directly below the undrilled spots (if that makes any sense) im hoping it wont cause any problems having them half way down the block???

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rob82 Mentor

rob82

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Thanks heaps guys. I got the car back yesterday and pulled the inlet plenum off today. the spot for them on the rb20 is just below the head but on the 30 block the spot was there but they were not drilled at all, although there was holes drilled and tapped directly below the undrilled spots (if that makes any sense) im hoping it wont cause any problems having them half way down the block???

Half way doen the block is fine - thats where mine are!! They do f**k all anyways.

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rob82 Mentor

rob82

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Mine work very well in that location, consistent results when compared to the knock amp and headphones.

Cheers

Gary

The factory ECU will not retard the timing if it sensors detonation. From what I have seen it will switch between high and low octane maps based on knock feedback at low rpm high load. If it changes from high to low and it still continues to detonate there is nothing it will do to stop it. So in a sense they do f**k all.

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cdorhout Newbie

cdorhout

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I drilled and tapped the higher locations for my knock sensors, the thread pitch is 1/4 BPT by the way.

I run a PowerFC and rely very heavy on my knock sensors, so I wanted them to be as accurate as possible. Plus, it's very easy to drill, tap, and install.

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JCaSs1001 Contributor

JCaSs1001

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I drilled and tapped the higher locations for my knock sensors, the thread pitch is 1/4 BPT by the way.

I run a PowerFC and rely very heavy on my knock sensors, so I wanted them to be as accurate as possible. Plus, it's very easy to drill, tap, and install.

did you actually notice any diffrences by mounting them in the higher positions??

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rob82 Mentor

rob82

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did you actually notice any diffrences by mounting them in the higher positions??

I could almost guarantee you that any location on the intake side of the block will work to the degree thats required for the factory ecu or PFC.

I have played extensively with knock sensor location on EJ25 block as I was experiencing spurious knock at a particular load and rpm point and found that moving the location of the sensor didn't help at all. Subarus are much more particluar with knock snesitvity than most other cars as they learn both advance and retard ignition.

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