Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I own a 1990 nissan Cefiro.

One side (RH side) of my tail lights will not work but the brake lights are fine.(..And yes i am aware that the bulbs are twin filament.)

I have checked the fuses, replaced the bulbs and replaced the relay but they still wont work!.

I put a test light in the bulb socket and there not getting power but the brake light still work fine when the pedal is pressed.

What the hell is going on with it?

Could this be a wiring problem?

A wiring diagram for a A31 cefiro would be helpful to if anyone has one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274468-tail-lght-issues/
Share on other sites

Connections.

Mine were playing up. Fuses good, bulbs were good, wiring was good.

Unplug the connection, blow it out, and reconnect it, push as hard together as you can, I found on mine, just because it "clicks" in, doesnt mean its in properly. I had to push it in a tad further, havent had drama's since. Stupid wiring connectors.

Not exactly sure what the problem is....

The lights work when you press the brake pedal, but they don't light up when you have your parkers on? Or the lights on one side work but not on the other side?

Either way, check there is no corrosion on the inside of the bulb holder. Check where the wires join to the back of the bulb holder. Check for corrosion where all the earths for the tail light assembly join together.

I think its something else.

I have the exact same problem, its a short somewhere.

turn lights on, only the passenger light gets power, but when you press the brake pedal, both stop lamps works.

Demotorvates me to drive it at nite, I get pulled over, car gets defected.

Ive changed the bulb holders 3 times, its deff not the plug or them, grabbed a test light to the plug of the body loom, its got power when needed but as soom as you plug the bulb holder loom into the body loom, I lose power.

Has to be a short somewhere, no idea where it is, checked everywhere!

:P

grabbed a test light to the plug of the body loom, its got power when needed but as soom as you plug the bulb holder loom into the body loom, I lose power.

I haven't looked in my boot for a while, but when you say bulb holder loom is that seperate to the bulb holder? Because you say you check for power at the body loom and that is okay, and you've replaced the bulb holders, but perhaps there is a break in the wire of the bulb holder loom?

...

Its also draining my battery :O

Ohh, your lucky! You get to find a bad circuit!

Pull the positive battery cable off the battery. Hook up a test light between the positive battery terminal and the positive cable. (+terminal -> test light -> +cable)

Does the light stay on? If it does, then you have a drain on your battery.

Start pulling fuses until the light goes off. Yours is probably the exterior lights circuit. Now that you know which circuit has the drain, you can start unplugging each bulb (or anything else electric) on that circuit.

Your clock and cd player will always have a very small current draw. Usually less than 0.06 amps. So it's a good idea to disconnect those before you start.

Also, you didn't leave the cabin light on, right? :(

They are twin filament bulbs - 1 filament for brakes, 1 filament for tails. Just because the brakes work doesn't exclude the tails from not working.

The bulb should have 2 "knobs" on the base. They mate against the 2 "knobs" in the bulb holder.

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes). Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively.   Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later. So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection. That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement. The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin.   Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump. Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...  
    • That's looking great! Are you planning to do things like all hidden wiring with it, or you're planning to have it look more like we'd expect an RB in an engine bay to look like?
    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
×
×
  • Create New...