Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I own a 1990 nissan Cefiro.

One side (RH side) of my tail lights will not work but the brake lights are fine.(..And yes i am aware that the bulbs are twin filament.)

I have checked the fuses, replaced the bulbs and replaced the relay but they still wont work!.

I put a test light in the bulb socket and there not getting power but the brake light still work fine when the pedal is pressed.

What the hell is going on with it?

Could this be a wiring problem?

A wiring diagram for a A31 cefiro would be helpful to if anyone has one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274468-tail-lght-issues/
Share on other sites

Connections.

Mine were playing up. Fuses good, bulbs were good, wiring was good.

Unplug the connection, blow it out, and reconnect it, push as hard together as you can, I found on mine, just because it "clicks" in, doesnt mean its in properly. I had to push it in a tad further, havent had drama's since. Stupid wiring connectors.

Not exactly sure what the problem is....

The lights work when you press the brake pedal, but they don't light up when you have your parkers on? Or the lights on one side work but not on the other side?

Either way, check there is no corrosion on the inside of the bulb holder. Check where the wires join to the back of the bulb holder. Check for corrosion where all the earths for the tail light assembly join together.

I think its something else.

I have the exact same problem, its a short somewhere.

turn lights on, only the passenger light gets power, but when you press the brake pedal, both stop lamps works.

Demotorvates me to drive it at nite, I get pulled over, car gets defected.

Ive changed the bulb holders 3 times, its deff not the plug or them, grabbed a test light to the plug of the body loom, its got power when needed but as soom as you plug the bulb holder loom into the body loom, I lose power.

Has to be a short somewhere, no idea where it is, checked everywhere!

:P

grabbed a test light to the plug of the body loom, its got power when needed but as soom as you plug the bulb holder loom into the body loom, I lose power.

I haven't looked in my boot for a while, but when you say bulb holder loom is that seperate to the bulb holder? Because you say you check for power at the body loom and that is okay, and you've replaced the bulb holders, but perhaps there is a break in the wire of the bulb holder loom?

...

Its also draining my battery :O

Ohh, your lucky! You get to find a bad circuit!

Pull the positive battery cable off the battery. Hook up a test light between the positive battery terminal and the positive cable. (+terminal -> test light -> +cable)

Does the light stay on? If it does, then you have a drain on your battery.

Start pulling fuses until the light goes off. Yours is probably the exterior lights circuit. Now that you know which circuit has the drain, you can start unplugging each bulb (or anything else electric) on that circuit.

Your clock and cd player will always have a very small current draw. Usually less than 0.06 amps. So it's a good idea to disconnect those before you start.

Also, you didn't leave the cabin light on, right? :(

They are twin filament bulbs - 1 filament for brakes, 1 filament for tails. Just because the brakes work doesn't exclude the tails from not working.

The bulb should have 2 "knobs" on the base. They mate against the 2 "knobs" in the bulb holder.

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...