Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2J all the way....all the way!!

if you want a v8.. why not just get a soarer??

it may have an extra 25% capacity but hes put in a heavier engine, in an already nose heavy car, and put the turbo right up the front... on the wrong side of the front wheels.. and thats not a small/light turbo either... imagine the amount of understeer it would have over a 2j with the same turbo.. not to mention the heat soak into the radiator from the exhaust being right there... thats got to rob power aswell.

is there any real benefit in overall performance by spending the money on doing this?? i think not.

the Jun supra dont need no mongrel v8 conversion.

are you sure the 1uz weighs more than the 2j NZM.031?

on a few toyota sites, they say that a bare 2j is about 181kg and a bare 1uz is about 175kg.

its not much in the sceme of things, but it certainly isnt a heavier engine from the looks of things.

also its inherantly a shorter engine being only 4 cyls long instead of 6, so it would have a more centralised weight distribution

are you sure the 1uz weighs more than the 2j NZM.031?

on a few toyota sites, they say that a bare 2j is about 181kg and a bare 1uz is about 175kg.

its not much in the sceme of things, but it certainly isnt a heavier engine from the looks of things.

also its inherantly a shorter engine being only 4 cyls long instead of 6, so it would have a more centralised weight distribution

Good point^

Yes, the 1UZ is probably shorter and lighter anyway...but really...any difference between the two engines is going to have somewhat negligible effects on weight distribution given the Supra weighs around 1600kg in the first place. Regardless, what's to say this isn't a car that has been set up for straight line heroics? In which case I would undoubtedly take the 1UZ over a 2JZ. 2JZ has a solid reputation for withstanding immense power in factory form, moreso than the 1UZ. But when you throw limitless amounts of money at either (stroking, forging etc.)...the 1UZ will come out on top because it has more displacement...for which there is no replacement.

Let's also get our mathematics correct and state that this engine has a 33.3% increase in capacity over the 2JZ...

If you've driven a car with a 1UZ you will know how smooth and refined these engines are, noticeably much more than the JZ series. This conversion makes sense to me...if not to give this car a much better sound, then to make it a smooth cruiser or an absolute animal in almost any situation with an even spread of torque across the range.

Edited by Birds
are you sure the 1uz weighs more than the 2j NZM.031?

on a few toyota sites, they say that a bare 2j is about 181kg and a bare 1uz is about 175kg.

its not much in the sceme of things, but it certainly isnt a heavier engine from the looks of things.

also its inherantly a shorter engine being only 4 cyls long instead of 6, so it would have a more centralised weight distribution

well im not sure now that you say that... i suppose the 1uz is all alloy vs cast block of 2j.. it would also be shorter in height, meaning it wouldnt throw around as much side to side force as the high straight 6.. i can see some merit to it in terms of why the jgtc cars run v8s... but for a street application thats not very well thought out in terms of heat and turbo placement, i cant see the point... and to ask $45000 is a bit much.. considering you can pretty much bolt that turbo to a stock 2jz bottom end.. leaving you enough change to buy some decent wheels (not saying gtr wheels arent decent) and the 2jz looks so much smoother and tidier in the supra engine bay than the 1uz.

for the same price (nearly) you could buy twoogle.. hmmm... v8 supra or twoogle??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...