Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just managed to get bronze on the first 2 Sebastian vettel challenges (using a controller with all assists off except for traction). Now for suzuka which i think will take a while. Monza was the easiest. Took about 20 mins of trying

Ok suzuka bites the big penis. After about 20 attempts the furthest i have gotten is about 30 seconds into the first lap, which is still a few corners before the hairpin, so i'm giving up. Not even going to bother trying it again. It would be ok if you could at least finish the race when you get dq'd so you can learn the car and the track, but instead you have to learn 1 corner per attempt, if you are lucky to make it to a new corner. Over half of my dq's were on the first corner

I made a pretty nice track the other day, its just a shame you cant fine tune it as theres one or two parts that annoy me. The rest of it is pretty nice with big sweeping corners and chicanes.

Its a start I guess, better then nothing

I have gold on the first 2 Vettel Challenges and a silver on suzuka which took me many hours over the course of a couple of days. The nurburgring took about 3 or 4 hours, Monza was fairly easy just need to use the green astroturf bits on the chicanes and at Ascari, also there is a little wall on the inside of the first lesmo corner so i found i needed to turn into the corner a lot later than what felt right but because the car has so much grip it just stays on the track. I'm also using a driving force GT which probably helps with achieving the target times over a DS3.

The game is good I only really have a problem with the headlights in the dark and the rewards available for races. Money is harder to come by in this game than any other and the cars are much more expensive now, the inability to re-win prize cars and sell them also doesnt help and whats with having a 20m credit limit.

My PSN is lmanion, add me for remote B-spec ;)

dam. nice work dude. once i get my arm out of the wrist brace i will be trying them again. the car is just soooo grippy its very deceiving.

on another note. i will hit lvl 35 today!!!! so i can have my very own to practice with.

I also used my wheel to change the brake bias to something like 7 or 8 front and 10 rear, with the amount of grip this thing has this helps bring the back round so you floor it and it just drives through the corner in a way that seems impossible.

how retarded is this. 21hrs into the 24hr le mans and this time im watching as it starts raining. car doesnt seem to be losing grip on the slicks so i leave it. couple laps later and its noticeably slower around corners and the lap times reflect this so i change to intermediates which gives more grip and brings the lap times back down.

now the pit indicator comes on after every lap to go back to slicks.. why??? how stupid is the ai to think that slicks are a better idea when the intermediates are giving more grip??

and whats more.. every other car on the field is pitting every 1-2 laps to replace their medium slicks, with another set of medium slicks?? ugh. words can not express the level of fail here.

i feel ya. in the Formula GT series, my B spec driver would pit on the last lap of every race......even if i told him to pit early to get it over and done with.....almost lost me the dam race/series.

all good tho, lvl 35 Bspec=i no longer care about it!!!

Edited by boiracer

I did a wet race (think it was monza in the polyphony cup) and i started on wets and i found that after a few laps a dry line started to appear, although i only discover it was happening from playing around with the view and driving off line on purpose and seeing the change in the ammount of spray off the tyres.

all good tho, lvl 35 Bspec=i no longer care about it!!!

i assume this is cos u finally got the X2010? the only thing i have against this car is its 500,000 credits to rebuild and u dont even get that much from winning a 24 hour. i reckon a 24 hour should win at least 1m credits. the current prizes dont make it worth it, i'm just doing it for the xp. using the mazda 787B stealth model cos all the stealth model and chrome line cars only cost 500 credits to overhaul so its far more economical. would suck if i hadn't bought collector's edition.

lol, thats it. the X2010 does the entire dream car series in about an hour. 84+ grand a race and 433g for winning. not bad money...alot better than the useless enduros. i think this will be my cash cow.

other than the remote B speccing, thanks guys :) picked up more than a mill tonight. and been setting up races all night.

Q: I'm assuming (risky move I know) that any cars you race against will eventually turn up in your UCD?. Or are there some cars that you can only buy used if you have the more expensive versions of GT5?

I ask because I've been purposefully refreshing the entire UCD stock list for weeks now any I'm still yet to see the F1 GTR long tail come through the lot (plus a heap of other interesting stuff). It's just the same bunch of shit-boxes over and over and over. Am I missing something here?

na the UCD is exactly the same no matter what version you bought. the only difference is the stealth models, and chrome line models that come as dlc only with collectors and signature. they are the only cars in the game not available to standard gt5. the stealth models are just same as the usual version in the game, just painted black with polyphony/gt5 logos on them. no big loss. chrome line are again same as normal cars but with lame paint jobs. the only good thing about them is they only cost 500 creds to overhaul.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...