Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree for the most part - my friends and i did our p's under the old laws, one of my friends saw out her p's on a vs statesman v8 cuz of power to weight. And my parents still highly disapproved of my buying the GT-R for that exact reason - you won't be able to handle it, that thing will kill you, etc.

I came off my p's earlier this year, first car was a n/a silvia (great to get a feel of what imports are like), then bought a tt soarer (stacked it in 6 weeks), then got a r32 gts-t (had that for about 1.5 years), and just bought a r33 gtr about 3 weeks ago. I reckon that the problem isn't in the cars, its the driver education. I did a defensive driving course myself and attended road trauma seminars and to have your eyes opened up to the real life consequences of driving like a idiot changed everything for me.

The thing is, i dont think i've had any close calls with fast imports and anything over the 125kw/tonne rule. They have mainly been morons in older commodores or girls in rusted out little lasers/corollas etc.

Make the restriction on the year of the car, or the safety features while also educating drivers to a greater extent.

Anyway thats my 2c

I think they are hoping that in 3 years time your attitude towards driving has changed. Every guy I know myself included wanted to speed or drag at every traffic light when we first got our licences. And we did. This does wear off, or atleast cut down alot over time. P platers do know how to drive fast cars...there's no special skill to getting a car moving. It's all about the attitude though. A friend of mine on his P plates did so many burnouts, drifts, tail slides and handbrake turns that he became very experienced with bad situations. He could get himself out of a bad situation better than any full licenced driver I know. But his attitude was the thing that got him in those bad situations in the first place. In contrast a full licence driver, after 3 years of getting that stuff out of their system, is less likely to put themselves in that situation to begin with. Had my friend done it in a "more capable" car he probably wouldn't be alive today, because he did push that Magna to its limits and it was probably more forgiving than say a Clubsport. As for the slow 4 cylinder cars being sped in...I do agree with this...for even a Ford Laser can hit 160km/h...but fast cars do encourage this type of behaviour. No one really cares about making a Ford Laser go fast, you need 100% attitude to want to do that. You sit in a GTR and the inclination is to give it a fang. Afterall, most people buy a fast car to go fast...

God i wish the victorian government would just make things clear and see things clear like banning high power vehicles isn't always going to save lifes coz theres always idiots trying to drive a low power car harder. Which results in the crashes

So you're saying the only difference would be the speed @ which they die?

Choosing the lesser idiot : high velocity idiot v's low velocity idiot...Mmm there's something to ponder.

You might have kids killing themselves in "high" powered cars on their P plates, but now give it 4 years and it'd be fully licenced drivers killing themselves from lack of experience in controlling high powered cars, and you know what that means? Restrictions for everyone. I don't really mind having the restrictions to be honest though, I'm a bit pissed off that I can't drive a V8 even though majority of them suck ass anyways, the noise is what does it for me, these laws just give me another 4 years to save up and choose my choice of coffin on wheels :)

A couple of good examples as to why the road laws are written for the lowest denominator, you can't assume everyone is of high intelligence with excellent co-ordination can you?

No experience in controlling high powered cars but with a good grounding (4yrs) in car control ect against.. next to no experience at all and jumping behind the wheel of blah blah.

At 18-21y.o your capacity to make sensibly decisions is average at best, add some hormones, throw in some delusions of persecution.

Like magic.. 1 Australian teen. In summary I trust you f*kas less than I would a shark in my bath tub.

I think they are hoping that in 3 years time your attitude towards driving has changed. Every guy I know myself included wanted to speed or drag at every traffic light when we first got our licences. And we did. This does wear off, or atleast cut down alot over time. P platers do know how to drive fast cars...there's no special skill to getting a car moving. It's all about the attitude though. A friend of mine on his P plates did so many burnouts, drifts, tail slides and handbrake turns that he became very experienced with bad situations. He could get himself out of a bad situation better than any full licenced driver I know. But his attitude was the thing that got him in those bad situations in the first place. In contrast a full licence driver, after 3 years of getting that stuff out of their system, is less likely to put themselves in that situation to begin with. Had my friend done it in a "more capable" car he probably wouldn't be alive today, because he did push that Magna to its limits and it was probably more forgiving than say a Clubsport. As for the slow 4 cylinder cars being sped in...I do agree with this...for even a Ford Laser can hit 160km/h...but fast cars do encourage this type of behaviour. No one really cares about making a Ford Laser go fast, you need 100% attitude to want to do that. You sit in a GTR and the inclination is to give it a fang. Afterall, most people buy a fast car to go fast...

True. I still have trouble behaving in it =b but would definitely be a worse situation had I had it from the outset. We learn from mistakes...or try to. I've had a couple crashes in my pulsar that I like to think have made me more observant as a driver.

So you're saying the only difference would be the speed @ which they die?

Choosing the lesser idiot : high velocity idiot v's low velocity idiot...Mmm there's something to ponder.

A couple of good examples as to why the road laws are written for the lowest denominator, you can't assume everyone is of high intelligence with excellent co-ordination can you?

No experience in controlling high powered cars but with a good grounding (4yrs) in car control ect against.. next to no experience at all and jumping behind the wheel of blah blah.

At 18-21y.o your capacity to make sensibly decisions is average at best, add some hormones, throw in some delusions of persecution.

Like magic.. 1 Australian teen. In summary I trust you f*kas less than I would a shark in my bath tub.

I wouldn't trust me either, haha. I'm sure when I get older, I'll change. Dad used to be the same, he s 49 now and drives a Mazda 323 and drives like a grandma, 1978, he was a VERY different person behind the wheel, so I've heard.

Very good you two, admitting past and current mistakes is the first step towards being a better driver. Now for the hard part :laugh:

When you get to my age (not that I'm all that old), you'll drive around with a sense of moral arrogance and feeling like you're the only one who obeys the law...shaking your head at all the other drivers whilst simultaneously making your own mistakes. It's a better ego boost than winning a drag race on your P's!

(all that said, I swear I'm one of only fifty people who know the road rules in Victoria)

Compulsory licence re-testing! I'm all for it...so many would fail. Oh so many. So, so, so many.

Very good you two, admitting past and current mistakes is the first step towards being a better driver. Now for the hard part :)

When you get to my age (not that I'm all that old), you'll drive around with a sense of moral arrogance and feeling like you're the only one who obeys the law...shaking your head at all the other drivers whilst simultaneously making your own mistakes. It's a better ego boost than winning a drag race on your P's!

(all that said, I swear I'm one of only fifty people who know the road rules in Victoria)

Compulsory licence re-testing! I'm all for it...so many would fail. Oh so many. So, so, so many.

Hell, I'm down for that, every year, should keep me on my toes.

Would keep everyone on their toes! Won't be implemented though - it would save too many lives at the cost of about half the TAC annual marketing budget...make politicians look smart...and too many people would fail it. One can dream though :P

Edited by Birds

^^^ disagreeing with the above. 18-60 while still not great does actually encompass the better drivers in the system. why cut off 'worst drivers' at 60? I can't even count the amount of times ive nearly been in an accident because a 70 or 80 year old cut me off. or just turned right...against oncoming traffic. Yes p platers are bad. But ive nearly been t boned or ran up the butt of a senior citizen more times than a p plater has ever bothered me.

He said between P's and over 60's Cass...think ya misread it :D

Though the "between" pat is a bit misleading...

Yeah I just reread it.

Feeling a lil sheepish. thanks for pointing that out though :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...