Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  3lit3 32 said:
Nah, It was more of a rhetorical statement rather than a factual comment. Wasn't saying you said otherwise but just making an observation that if he had the second tune done at Dyson, it would more than likely rule out bad tuning.

Oh fair enough.

Completely agree :)

  N1GTR said:
Maybe i missed it, did Dyson tune it the second time?

Dyson had done the tune befor i bought it and it was running great. But then i went and changed the top end then dyson retuned it for me and made 490 at 20psi. was running wicked under boost but too fuely at idel. Then i had a bit of a missfire. so i took it to the local guys. They said the tune was done the old school way and that they could get heaps more power. So they made me 430 at 24psi. YAY. And to fix the miss fire they sent the microtec of and said it was the problem. them said it was the harness so they replaced it. Then still missfired so they replaced my no1 coil for $40 that fixed the prob. Then they gave me a bill for near $2500 they wont give me a timming graph. Said they cant get that of a dyno tune. but ill scan the results from dyson and the results for the local boys T.A.S.

  monty_r33 said:
Dyson had done the tune befor i bought it and it was running great. But then i went and changed the top end then dyson retuned it for me and made 490 at 20psi. was running wicked under boost but too fuely at idel. Then i had a bit of a missfire. so i took it to the local guys. They said the tune was done the old school way and that they could get heaps more power. So they made me 430 at 24psi. YAY. And to fix the miss fire they sent the microtec of and said it was the problem. them said it was the harness so they replaced it. Then still missfired so they replaced my no1 coil for $40 that fixed the prob. Then they gave me a bill for near $2500 they wont give me a timming graph. Said they cant get that of a dyno tune. but ill scan the results from dyson and the results for the local boys T.A.S.

^^^ there's the issue.... "the local guys" :P

Edited by URAS
  monty_r33 said:
Dyson had done the tune befor i bought it and it was running great. But then i went and changed the top end then dyson retuned it for me and made 490 at 20psi. was running wicked under boost but too fuely at idel. Then i had a bit of a missfire. so i took it to the local guys. They said the tune was done the old school way and that they could get heaps more power. So they made me 430 at 24psi. YAY. And to fix the miss fire they sent the microtec of and said it was the problem. them said it was the harness so they replaced it. Then still missfired so they replaced my no1 coil for $40 that fixed the prob. Then they gave me a bill for near $2500 they wont give me a timming graph. Said they cant get that of a dyno tune. but ill scan the results from dyson and the results for the local boys T.A.S.

So you are saying you had 490rwhp then took it to another tuner and they could only get 430? nothing mechanical has changed ?

  DiRTgarage said:
whats a Link ?

Link make the ECU which calls the shots on the fastest RB30 powered car in the world (may be the quickest RB in this part of the world not running meth too?).

  Lithium said:
Link make the ECU which calls the shots on the fastest RB30 powered car in the world (may be the quickest RB in this part of the world not running meth too?).

So what? Cars that are even faster, much faster, don't have ECU's at all. So we should all change to that fuel injection system? Why not, based on your rating system, it's better than a Link?

Cheers

Gary

  Sydneykid said:
So what? Cars that are even faster, much faster, don't have ECU's at all. So we should all change to that fuel injection system? Why not, based on your rating system, it's better than a Link?

Cheers

Gary

Mechanical injection is superior to Electronic injection in nearly all applications...so yeah, we should all change to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...