Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok here's my tale

Today on the dyno my car was given a run up with new turbo and new injectors with the old tune.

- 114hp @ wheels

- 10.1 AF.. or lower... 10 was the lowest on the scale

it was a no brainer that it was over fueled.

A quick adjustment of maps:

- 209hp@wheels@6000rpm

Nothing special, car had that in its previous stock form. However the turbo wasnt reaching boost till 4500 rpm, then slowly built up boost to 14psi.

- Finger was pointed at the EMS boost control solenoid being to slow to bring on boost.

The solenoid was sorted and boost was coming on at 3200rpm feeling stronger. BUT.. heres the but...

- Soon as the car reaches 5000rpm it seems like there is an ignition cut and stops the power.

We are scratching our heads as to why, New plugs were put in and gapped to 0.8.

- Rev cut is 7900 hard, 7500 soft

- boost Kpa cut is set at well over 1bar ... car hit 17.1psi at one stage earlier.

- boost when ignition breakdown occured was 12psi

Anyone got any ideas?

*Have been told*

- at higher boost pressure the spark plug electrodes can bounce resulting in ignition breakdown... (the tips close then open.. boucnce)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27530-ignition-breakdown-techie-question/
Share on other sites

Steve,

I am using BCPR6ES gapped to .8 minimum.

apparently the tips of these can 'bounce' under higher boost pressures and cause an ignition breakdown as i am expereincing. Have you got any input on that at all ?

I have been recommened by the shop to use Iridium ($20 per plug)

Up until today i have laughed at everyone who rushed out to use iridiums, as i saw normal plugs working fine, but to have this sudden break down has made me wonder....

Do not use iridium tipped plugs for forced induction applications. Our experience has shown them to be severely lacking when it comes to boosted engines. The tips usually break off then the plug is cactus causing all sorts of misfires.

i think they are gonna try some expensive ass plugs tomorrow :S

doubt its a coil pack, never had a problem before, and as stated, was running fine minutes before this current break down happened.

Dyno Day 2: No result

ok they put in iridiums, didnt fix the problem.

The car did 1 ramp and was nice and clean, BUT STILL ONLY 206hp on 11psi!!!! WTF

car went for another ramp... and the breakdown appeared again.

The place is pissed off and so am i. Platnum plugs are being tried tomorrow.

well if its not fuel, its most probably ignition.

I dont want to tell pork pies, but I have heard off this forum that the EMS wastespark setup was attributed to frying coilpacks. I have only heard of it the once.

As GTSt suggests, probably a good idea to be looking there next. If you know someone with a skyline see if you can borrow there coilpacks for a couple of dyno pulls - will soon enough tell you if that is where your problem is.

last dyno tune we swapped all coil packs due to a missfire

all coil packs were good... the miss fire was an error in their tune!

i am wondering about the actual ignition module now.

Also...

the 1:1 gear in my car is 3rd. Should the dyno run be made in 3rd gear, or is it 4th gear no matter what ?

ok for those interested:

The ignition break down was actually the car getting too much fuel! yet the AF were 12.1:1

Dyno guy took the car for laps around the block takeing fuel OUT!, said the car seemed heaps better and was running alot better.

Comes back to the dyno, does 1 ramp, 11.1:1 AF !!... taking fuel out made the car run richer! We are both stumped as to why this happened.

very weird indeed. Should have the car back end of today, tomorrow morning at the latest

:)

yeah all sensors there.

My guessing is that somehow the fuel limits on the EMS were set too high, and the EMS thought it wasnt possible to supply anymore fuel above what it had, so it imposed a fuel/ignition cut.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...