Diff Troubles

[britz1]

guys i have a r32 track car and i need an lsd its a bit unpredictable with the stock viscous lsd

im thnking of welding it because its not goin to be streeted so im thinking the weld is the cheap option...

how do i do it? dose il last? can anyone help me in perth wa?

[2LV8ETR]

Weld the spider gears to the planetary gear. Special care should be taken to make the most durable welds possible, some have welded thick bolts onto the spider gears to make for a stronger weld. Failure could result in an immobilised diff which would cause an unsafe condition for you, and those around you.

Pros:

- Breaks traction consistently, makes drifting much easier than open diff.

- It's cheaper than an aftermarket center.

- It's extremely durable when done properly.

- Little to no maintenance.

- In certain situations, and if driven correctly, you will have more grip in cornering.

Cons:

- Requires a different way of taking corners. Must accelerate through a turn, to the limit of adhesion, taking care not to break the tyres loose and cause oversteer if circuit racing.

- Tyres make noise at very low speeds (typically parking, or U-turns) as the wheels fight each other. The wheels are travelling at the same speed, but along different radii, which causes the outside wheel to shake, hop, and break loose at low speeds. This will increase tyre wear in normal use, but if you really care about tyre wear over performance, you wouldn't be welding a diff. Let it also be known that most 2-way LSD's exhibit this same characteristic, especially the more aggressive ones.

- Car tends to push at low speed.

- Not recommended for inexperienced grip driving. Can be very effective and far more consistent than an open diff, but requires advanced driving techniques.

- If the welds break, they can cause diff lock, and lead to a potential accident.

[britz1]

cool well i will remove the dif in the next couple weeks and take it to my mates boiler maker workshop...

btw... its a drift car so yer locked diff is the way to go

[Dearlove]

could re-shim it, you can make it a lock diff with shims or get it just right so it just a really really tight viscous diff

i've been reading up on it in the DIY section as i plan on doing it in the coming weeks b4 the next drift practice

[battery]

i have heard people say a locked diff promotes understeer, especially on corner entry.

i've never driven a car with one but i suspect this conception is due to inexperienced driving more than anything??

[Kinks]

Yep, a locked diff promotes understeer on trailing throttle and power oversteer. If you have a locked diff you need to drive around the diff, which is where the "experience" factor comes in.

Despite that, after daily driving a car with a locker in it for years I overcooked one corner and the understeer was pretty savage. It just would not turn in. You need to get all your braking done before the corner and virtually be back on the throttle by the time you turn in, as you use the throttle to adjust your steering trim as you go around the corner. Trail braking with a locker is a recipe for disaster.

[2munji]

Had a 2way in my old GTST it was a fun thing to have when into sliding, but if your not into that then Standard LSD or even a nicely shimmed is perfecto!

[battery]

"trailing throttle"

"Trail braking "

what do these terms mean?

[2LV8ETR]

Trailing-throttle is a form of oversteer that occurs when the vertical load on the tires shifts from the rear to the front quickly due to throttle release while cornering. This decrease in vertical load causes a decrease in the lateral force generated by the rear axle, so the axle starts to accelerate towards the outside of the turn. This steers the car more tightly into the turn, hence causing oversteer. In essence, this means that easing off the throttle causes the rear wheels to break away suddenly, with the potential for the car to leave the road tail first.

Trail-braking is a subtle driving technique that allows for later braking and increased corner entry speed. The classical technique is to complete braking before turn-in. This is a safer, easier technique for the driver because it separates traction management into two phases, braking and cornering, so the driver doesn't have to chew gum and walk at the same time, as it were. With the trail-braking technique, the driver carries braking into the corner, gradually trailing off the brakes while winding in the steering. Since braking continues in the corner, it's possible to delay its onset in the preceding straight braking zone. Since it eliminates the sub-optimal moments between the ramp-down from braking and the ramp-up to limit cornering by overlapping them, entry speeds can be higher. The combination of these two effects means that the advantage of later braking is carried through the first part of the corner. In many ways, this is the flip side to corner exit, where any speed advantage due to superior technique gets carried all the way down the ensuing straight. The magnitude of the trail-braking effect is much smaller, though perhaps a car length or two for a typical corner. Done consistently, though, it can accumulate to whole seconds over a course.

[battery]

you guys are awesome thanks!